New to Tamyia Acrylics and want to know the best way to brush paint with them?

[Guest]

Hi,

Basically I have returned to plastic modelling after a 10 year hiatus by the purchased a Tamyia 1/12 Yamaha M1 motorbike. Now, in the past I have only used enamal paint and would like to go down the Tamyia acyrilic route, however I have read some horror stories about how bad these brush paint. What is the best way to use them?

Note, I have bourght a few colours already and I can use a airbrush, but only for painting larger surfaces. So I will have to brush paint the the detail work for the M1 kit.

Thanks

[Ian M]

Short version. Tamiya Acrylics and Paint brushes are a bad combo. It can be done but I have seen so many more people moaning about it than those saying how good they are.

If you can spray them, spray them. For real tiny parts on a motorbike you will probably be fine though.

I used Them once and sold them again the next day!!!!

Ian M

[spanner570]

I only brush paint and I have tried tamiya Acrylics and find them useless for brush work, even after priming.

In my experience the only paint worth a carrot to brush paint with is Vallejo Model Colour. Any area, big or small they work a treat.

Always use them thinned first. Some people advocate distilled water, I use tap water as I find it makes no difference to the performance of the paint. As to the ratio to thin, I honestly don't know. I just mix until the paint covers without dragging and doesn't loose any detail on the model.

Always use at least two or three coats, light colour first. Using just one coat is fatal!

I strongly recommend you use enamels for smaller, fiddly bits. I use Humbrol or Revell (Which is marginally cheaper)

Cheers,

Ron

[Guest]

Hello, thanks for the info chaps, looks like plan B???? TBH I was kinda hoping that priming my work would solve the problem. Clearly not.

So with with Vallejo, do they do a paint chart comparison so you know if you are using the correct shade or not. I mean, for example to complete the engine on the M1, I need about 4/5 different shades of silver?

So Tamyia x-70 (say) = Vallejo 1234?

[Guest]

I've heard this so often over the years - Tamiya acrylics are crap for brushing. Not true. Tamiya acrylics can be brushed giving a very nice finish. Those saying the paint is not good for brushing do not use proper technique.

The problem with Tamiya acrylics comes from how the paint quickly the paint starts to cure. The trick is to slow the cure rate. This can be done with proper thinning and use of a retarder. Tamiya acryilic can even be brushed for soft edges and blotches.

This photo is of a 72nd Tony I did a couple of years ago. The aluminum paint is a lacquer, as is the yellow ID stripe. The white and red are Tamiya acrylic sprayed. The blotches are Tamiya acrylic brushed. Notice some of the blotches are soft edged, some are a bit harder edged. If you look closely, you should see a few very small paint runs. All by design.

The green paint was thinned with Tamiya acrylic thinner and retarded with Tamiya Paint Retarder (acrylic). I don't remember percentages, but it's more important to note how thin the paint is.

The prop here is from the same model. The brown paint is lacquer, the yellow is Tamiya acrylic. Note the hard edge. The proportions paint/thinner/retarder were a bit different, but the trick for coverage was really several thin coats applied over a few days.

I've tried several acrylic retarders with Tamiya's acrylics. Tamiya's retarder worked best, but like most techniques explore to see what works best for you.

Priming is not entirely necessary for brush painting these paints. A prime coat doesn't make brushing easier, but does help with adhesion. In any case, clean the plastic surface before painting.

Hope this helps.

[Guest]

Thanks jbank's i will remember this usfull tip for when i start airbrushing as i always use Tamiya paint's.

Regards

John

[Guest]

Brushing Tamiya paint is really not worth the hassle, there are far better/easier paints for this purpose but the best by far is Vallejo, it's superb

[Guest]

The original question wasn't whether it was worth the trouble. It was whether Tamiya acrylics could be brushed. Yes, they can and they can provide excellent results.

John Huggins, it's not necessary to use a retarder when airbrushing these paints unless you find the paint drying on your airbrush needle. I haven't had this happen with Tamiya acrylics, but have with other acrylics. Usually I use Mr Color Leveling Thinner, a cooler lacquer thinner with a retarding agent, when spraying Tamiya acrylics.

[Ian M]

Like I said, they can be brushed but I could point out still a lot of hassle for some one new to the game.

I could go as far as saying all paints can be brush painted. Its all down to technique. Practice and perseverance.

Ian M

[Guest]

Oh, I agree with you, Ian. Most things are a matter of technique. Developing or enhancing technique is probably the central thrust of modeling for me. My greatest enjoyment is developing or enhancing skills and this means technique.

Let's examine the original post.

Gobby58 has returned to the hobby after a spell away. He wishs to build a Tamiya kit. He has an airbrush which he may use for larger areas, but plans to hand brush smaller parts. He has some Tamiya acrylics at hand and asks how best to use these.

My response addressed this question: how best to use Tamiya acrylic paint for brushing. Proper thinning of paints and use of retarders for acrylics are simple, basic techniques that are useful to all modelers, not those who have been at it for many years. I didn't mention such things as blending or wet-on-wet techniques that require more practice and knowledge of paint characteristics.

[Ian M]

You are quite correct Jon. He asked and you came with a very good reply. I am sure that many of the members that use Tamiya acrylics will be pleased to learn that they do not need to buy an air brush or change to another brand of paint.

Blending and wet on wet..... sounds like you have just volunteered for a how to tutorial there Jon. LOL.

Ian M

ps. can we see the rest of the aircraft you showed close up with that mottle effect?

[Guest]

Happy to show. FineMolds' 72nd Ki-61. Markings are mixture of kit decals, Lifelike decals and painted. The subject is Cpl Ishioka's #43 244th Sentai, Chofu, 1945.

The blotches were done using Tamiya acrylic XF-13 JA Green thinned, retarded and applied with brush. I slightly wetted the aluminum base coat with Tamiya acrylic thinner before blotching. This softens the edges of the blotches. The black glare panel is sprayed Tamiya acrylic flat black. It was very gently sanded for wear. When Tamiya acrylic is newly sprayed, the paint is soft enough to be gently worn with a stiff brush or worn sand paper. This can make for very effective worn paint effects.

#43 was chosen for this subject because this is probably the rarest of all model subjects from this period. There are photographs of all surfaces - upper, lower, front, back, left, right. I tried to replicate the shape of the blotches shown in the photos. These photos show the blotches vary a great deal in how hard and sharp the edges of the blotches were. I tried to replicate these differences also.

[Ian M]

In 1/72nd scale. Dude, well done.

Ian M

[Guest]

I have no knowledge of Tamiya paints except that every where I have been they say using a hand brush is not on.

Gobby I use Vallejo Model Air for air brushing & Vallejo Model for painting of small parts. I have had good results with these.

Good idea to order a couple of bottles of each & see how they go from your point of view. Go to the Vallejo site & they have so much information on their products & how to use them. Their range is so wide. You can email them with a question & within an hour or two receive the answer.

They also provide, for a sum, colour cards unlike any others which are hand prepared giving real colours for Model & Model Air.

Laurie

[Guest]

The original question wasn't whether it was worth the trouble. It was whether Tamiya acrylics could be brushed.

You are 100% correct, best to try and be helpful though eh?