More canopy masking issues...

[Guest]

Greetings all!

Well, I have looked at a few previous threads regarding the ever complicated tasks of canopy masking. My current project; 1:48 Italeri F-15 E has me frustrated. I have progressed about 80% towards completion (photos available soon) and as I usually save the canopy for the end-stages...well, now that I have arrived there I find I'd rather avoid it all together. Lol!

I tried to mask it using Tamia tape (I find the tape more "workable" than standard masking tape)...but the complication comes from masking the curved edge; specifically the 180 degree curvature that encompasses the leading edge of the canopy. Oddly enough, tape won't conform. It's not possible to use a single strip of tape and run it from end to end. Using several pieces of tape only ruins the continuity of the "straight" line.

Now, I've read that some of you choose to mask the entire canopy with tape and then cut out the framed edges, is this right? Seems risky to me as one slip of the razor and *Wham* new, permanent scratch in my clear plastic. Am I missing something here?

[papa 695]

Thats the way i mask canopys if you take it nice and steady it works a treat just a couple of light passes usually works but make sure the masking tape is pressed down well i usually use a cocktail stick to rub around the edge of the canopy frame

[Guest]

Tony I wrote this a short time back which may help.

http://www.scale-models.co.uk/testing-room/14062-vinyl-masking-sucess.html#post107163

To sum up it sticks well releases easily. Comes in a number of thicknesses all on the same sheet. Most important it is much easier to stretch around curves than tape. It also has a good clean solid edge compared to tape.

Laurie

[stona]

It's a tricky one Tony. You can use a combination of methods. For large flattish sides (I've just done a Ju87) you can run one piece of tape and cut around the frames with a new blade. I use a N011 scalpel. For trickier shapes or curves you can lay some very thin strips along the frame lines,trimming the ends,and then fill in the centre with a little bit or bits.

It's still important to burnish down the edges as Ian said above.

There are alternatives. Hasegawa kits sometimes contain(ed?) decals to lay onto the frames. You can paint clear decal paper in the relevant colour and cut strips to apply to the frames. I find it even more fiddly than masking but it may be worth a try.

Cheers

Steve

[Vaughan]

Hi Tony

There are also canopy masks made by Eduard which you can get from Hannants. They don't cover every model out there and they are not cheap, but they do take away the stress of trying to make your own.

Vaughan

[Guest]

Apologies Tony in a rush this morning & did not take in all you had laid out.

On my present model I have used Tamiya on the canopy & the plastic stuff for the nose window oval frame.

On the canopy I laid out a strip of 1" wide Tamiya on a cutting board. Then with a new Morton blade cut strips of about 1mm. You need really crisp cuts. Also use the cut side up against the canopy frame. These strips go around slight curves with a stretch. For more acute curves I cut the Tamiya tape even less than a 1mm. Great fiddle but it works quite well. But could not get it to work well on the nose window & which in desperation found this plastic tape. Perhaps that is me.

I tried early on in my model experience plastering the canopy with tape then cutting but gave up after the first cut. Found that it was in some if not most circumstances virtually impossible to see the accurate line of the frame through the tape. Also as you say one slip & you have had your fish & chips & the canopy to boot plus a horrible temper for days on end which leads to ...............

Got a lot of advice here on a previous model & found there is no quick solution the tape way. It is a hard patient slog. You do need a magnifier. Took me more than two long evenings & a bit more to tape the present 1/48 mosquito.

Laurie

[Guest]

Thanks for all the replies and great advice!

Oddly enough, the thought of cutting the tape into small strips had never occurred to me. It would seem to make it a bit more flexible. The idea of purchasing pre-made decals is a fascinating one and one that I may entertain on another kit. however, seeing as this is a somewhat inexpensive kit (and one that I'm not all too impressed with; the molds anyway)...I'll probably save that idea for a higher end kit.

After I posted this, I checked back (somewhat soon) and had yet to find a reply, then, I promptly forgot the fact that I posted the thread to begin with (***slaps self on head***)...so, I sort of improvised. I hand painted the thing. Then, since I use acrylics, I used a toothpick (is this what some of you are referring to a "cocktail stick") and scrapped away the excess paint. I find I have to be careful in the process as even wood will leave a scuff or two on the clear plastic. Still though, the results are not too bad.

Well, I'll say it again, this site and you guys are great! I don't get here too often as my internet time is somewhat limited but It's a fantastic resource for those of us who love this hobby! Again, my thanks to you all and best wishes from here across the pond!

Cheers!

[BarryW]

Instead of cutting Tamiya tape into thin strips you might find this link useful to buy tape even smaller than 1mm. When I had a problem with canopy masks on my last build when the paint came away with the mask, I hand painted having first used 1.5mm Jammy tape to delineate the edges of the frames and provide some protection for 'overspill'. It worked out OK but for me getting the best out of frame painting is still a work in progress.

Micro Masking Tape

[Guest]

Hey that looks good Barry.

I take it you used the the normal tape & not the viny ?

Does the tape come away OK ? Did you have any creep under the edges ?

Laurie

[Guest]

If you're quite careful with a paint brush then ther's the old fashioned way of painting the canopy as neat as possible (preferably with an acrylic paint) then use a cocktail stick when the paints dry to rub at the window areas this will rub away the "over-spill" leaving a neat line.

Worked quite well on my 1/32 ju88, i found the masking scenario a bit daunting myself.

[BarryW]

Yes Laurie, the normal tape. It came away well and is a lot less tacky than a lot of tape. No creep but it does need burnishing.