Combining different brands

[nicesub]

Hi All,

So I started with this hobby 6 months ago and so far I am enjoying it a lot. I am to complete 3rd kit in a few days.
All 3 kits that I worked on were from Revell, and at the very start I did not want to complicate it too much so I followed the colour list given to me by Revell in the instructions. Basically I would have a list of paint codes that match to their line-up of paint. This eliminated the need for looking around and matching the correct paint.

Recently I started wondering how for example people buy a kit from brand x and use paints from brand y. How do you find correct matching paint? Often I see people when they build kits on YT they end up with kit brand x and paints from brands y and z and I am wondering how do you find the correct paint?
Sometimes there are so many different shades of the same paint.
For example if I buy a kit from Eduard they say Mr.Hoby paint C351. Do I have to go for Mr.Hobby or I can look for matching from Revell or Vallejo for example and how do I find the matching one?

[Steven000]

You can choose other brands without any problem, most people prefer a specific brand, one they have good exp with.

You can find other paint brand codes in the instructions from other models, for example

You have a spitfire mkIX from revell,
On the scalemates website you search another spitfire mkIX from Tamiya, you can download the instructions for that model in most cases, and so you can see what paint codes they came up with for example...

Have fun!
Steven

[Dave Ward]

Daniel,
there are loads of conversion tables available on the 'net like this - https://www.paint4models.com/ they can be confusing to read, but the info is out there! Each maker normally has cross references tables for other brands. Revell go their own way, no references to any other sort of paint!
Dave

[Jim R]

Hi Daniel
This is another useful conversion site - HERE
Jim

[Guest]

How do you find correct matching paint?

I think it’s usually a combination of four ways:

• Using conversion tables, like those referred to above.
• Going by the manufacturer’s names for the paints — if Revell recommends their 36108 matt black, it’s fairly easy to decide that Tamiya XF-1 flat black will do the job too (this, of course, is a pretty obvious example, but it also works with things like “olive drab”, “fire engine red”, “sea grey” or “lemon yellow”).
• Eyeballing it — when the manufacturer recommends (say) khaki but you don’t have any of the brands they refer to, you can figure khaki probably means a medium earth shade, and just pick a colour you think may match from your paint collection.
• Knowing better — when a manufacturer says to paint your Second World War American tank with Humbrol 66 olive drab, for example, you might know that Humbrol 66 is a very poor match for American OD, and therefore take another paint that you feel is a better match for it.

For example if I buy a kit from Eduard they say Mr.Hoby paint C351. Do I have to go for Mr.Hobby or I can look for matching from Revell or Vallejo for example and how do I find the matching one?

You can look up another paint that will match, either more or less, or exactly. Whether you want a precise match or not is entirely up to you, for which you may have all kinds of reasons, including some of those I mentioned above. If you know better, for example, you generally won’t want a perfect match, but in that case you don’t need a conversion anyway

Also, I would recommend you actively try different brands of paint. Just buy one or two pots of a brand you don’t know, and you will probably soon work out whether or not you like it (and can get along with it).

[dave]

Definitely try different brands and see what you like, I have a few paints from different brands purely because I happen to like that particular colour for something, for instance I have AK interactives "Rubber Tires".

You can also choose the paint by the colour scheme you choose, for instance a German RLM70/71 splinter camouflage over RLM65 for a Battle of Britain Luftwaffe bomber, then get the colours that match that from your favourite paint manufacturer. Although there is a mass of conflicting advice out there on whose RLM 70 is or is not accurate.

[JR]

I started with Amig, they had a great range of colours which sometimes nos were given on boxes. Then started to search with charts to find equivalent paint nos if they weren't shown.

[Guest]

Great way of finding colours.

In your browser type in the say for a Lancaster.

"Internal pictures of a Lancaster" all the colours are there.

Also just external pictures of a Lancaster. Not only, as internal pictures, but fantastic detail

This works for most aircraft etc.

Laurie

[Guest]

Just add for paint conversion.

Type in browser model making paints conversion charts.

[Ian M]

And about now in the darkest depths of Daniels man cave a blabbering wreak of a man is born.. lol
"Paint colour 'the true match' " probably one of the better ways to get people hot under the collar.
Ask ten people what the propper colour is to use for tank X, boat Y or aircraft Z. you will most likely get ten different "the proper colour is....."
A discussion that is also hot within the paint manufactures. As an example I have wanted to build a Bofors AA gun with a Bedford tow/ammo truck. Both painted, some time apart with "the right colour" just from two different firms. Unfortunately the truck painted I ran out of the paint and the maker gone bust. Got the "same colour" from another make. NOTHING like the colour of the truck. So be aware of that as well.
Is the model you are depicting to be 'factory fresh' or old/well used/rusty and neglected. It all, well in WWII period things, adds up to how the colour looks. Modern armour = modern Paints/finises that are much harder and have more permanent pigment. From the factory that is. The after market camouflage added as need be is made to be easier to remove.
(we have an army base not far away and have seen the Factory Green painted things coming back from their tures in their Desert paint-over. Rather tatty to so the least!)

So Unless you intent to put your builds on the judges table at shows, where they care a lot more about things like that, I would say find the colour that is close enough and make sure you can get enough of if! Even the best makers of paint can find new data that is compelling enough to get them to update their formular. Run out of paint halfway through a build and buy some new, to find out they have changer the colour and you will not be happy. Ask me how I know!

There are a couple of ways with dealing with the great paint dilemma:
Its close enough,
Its my model
Build model cars, you can paint those whatever colour you like.

Being one of those nutters that builds armour, aircraft and ships I have at least found out it is better (for my budget) to keep to one country.... even though I have also built a few from "the other side".... Yes more bloody paint to worry over and find and buy!!!

[Guest]

Is the model you are depicting to be 'factory fresh' or old/well used/rusty and neglected. It all, well in WWII period things, adds up to how the colour looks. Modern armour = modern Paints/finises that are much harder and have more permanent pigment.

And still you get lots of colour differences. For example, on this M1A2 Abrams, compare the skirt plate just in front of the green ones, with the one in front of that one:

[ATTACH]416165[/ATTACH]

(we have an army base not far away and have seen the Factory Green painted things coming back from their tures in their Desert paint-over. Rather tatty to so the least!)

This can also result because desert camouflage is frequently painted over the basic colour without cleaning the vehicle. There are plenty of photos of such paint just peeling off everywhere on the vehicle.

So Unless you intent to put your builds on the judges table at shows, where they care a lot more about things like that, I would say find the colour that is close enough and make sure you can get enough of if! Even the best makers of paint can find new data that is compelling enough to get them to update their formular. Run out of paint halfway through a build and buy some new, to find out they have changer the colour and you will not be happy.

Here’s a good illustration of that, which I posted a few weeks ago:

[Guest]

Superb summing up Mr Muddle. My views entirely. No one is going to know if your colour interperation is authentic --correct.

Mmm what is correct. Human being are supposed to look all the same. But we all look wierd. Most animals look the same as each other. To me.

Laurie

[Tim Marlow]

With paint, near enough is good enough, especially on uniforms and military vehicles....

see what I mean!

[nicesub]

Well, this is turning in interesting topic. I was mostly curious on how people find and match colours and this question was in my mind for a while. Sure I will try different stuff in the future and will use the advice given to me here.
Usually, when I build my stuff I try and stick to the instructions as much as I can and try to replicate as much as I can. So far my goal is that every new kit that I build is better and of higher quality then the previous one. I like the challenge there.

Something I will for sure keep in my mind and one of the reasons why I check my materials before I start any project. What ever is low on quantity or missing I order it before I start construction.

Run out of paint halfway through a build and buy some new, to find out they have changer the colour and you will not be happy. Ask me how I know!

Thank you Jim, great link.

Hi Daniel
This is another useful conversion site - HERE
Jim

[JR]

Sorry for butting in Dan.

With paint, near enough is good enough, especially on uniforms and military vehicles....
[ATTACH=CONFIG]n1145627[/ATTACH]
see what I mean!

Tim, could I have the one 4 rows up and 3 in from the right please, just need to take for a test drive..