Brush vs airbrush?

[dalej2014]

So... I'm considering spending some cold hard cash on something like this, but I've no experience with an AB. Can anyone enlighten me? Tell me the difference from a gold old hairy stick, and most important - if it's worth it!?
I'll be primarily working on 1/35 scale armour, tanks and 54mm figures. I already realise it could be a huge advantage when painting camoflague. I will be using acrylics (thinned a bit for AB) most of the time, and use a mask when I have to use enamel, laquer or similar.
I have to say I was sceptical an AB could do decent figure painting, but having seen some of the posts (followers of bone and the doggies) I've changed my mind. I realise there's a learning curve, but it's basically - air on, paint on, paint off, air off, right? I can always find old plastic bottles to practise on!
Oh, last question - cleaning. How long does it take? And is that every time you spray?
Thanks in advance!

[PaulTRose]

short answer...yes its worth it

clean every single time!!......but it only takes a minute

personally i dont like a compressor with a tank..............takes too long to get up to pressure when you might only be using it for 60 seconds...........but thats just me

we all started with a chinese knock off air brush..........they are ok if you look after them.........i bought one only recently to try something so i wouldnt knacker my sparmax

best way to practice is an old kit you can use as a test mule............ive got a panzer that has been at least 2 dozen colours and camo schemes lol

consider a compressor and AB as an investment

[PaulTRose]

oh.....and think about ventilation......a proper spray booth or a home made extractor.....there is plenty of plans and ideas out there

and once you start using water based acyrlics you will never use enamels or lacuars.......too much of a pain to clean

[dalej2014]

oh.....and think about ventilation......a proper spray booth or a home made extractor.....there is plenty of plans and ideas out there

and once you start using water based acyrlics you will never use enamels or lacuars.......too much of a pain to clean

Thank you. I'm talking myself into it...

[PaulTRose]

Thank you. I'm talking myself into it...

i once made a booth using a big plastic storage box on its side........hole in the back.......2 12 volt computer fans (cheap as chips they were)........tumble drier extraction hose........................was a bit more to it than that but thats it in a nutshell...........worked a treat for 2 years till the fans died but the whole thing was so cheap i couldnt complain

ive seen them done with things like cooker extraction hoods and bathroom extractor fans.....................you just got to think about electricity and water vapour (acrylics) or flammable vapour (enamels/laquers)

once had someone say wernt i worried about paint particles being vented out the window but i proved it actually dries in the first 2 foot of the vent hose

[Mark1]

When I first started airbrushing I thought why am I bothering, was nothing but hassle but stuck at it and actually quite enjoy it now, half the knack I found was mixing the paint the to the right viscosity,it's trial and error to start with but well worth it in the end. Like anything it just takes some practice. I know i should but I seem to get away with not taking it apart for cleaning after every use just spray 2 or 3 lots of water through it and make sure the tips clean, me just being lazy lol.

[Guest]

Beauty Dale of an airbrush is you get a consistent thin coat.
Thinness is a great advantage as you are not clogging up detail lines & fine detail.

Have had with & with out tank. For me a tank is a must as I get a better supply of air. With out
a tank there is a pulse as the compressor works away.

Also an advantage is that once the tank is full the compressor turns off until it needs replenishing
I built a box enclosure for my unit (vents at the rear) lined with audio suppression material (foam).
Hardly hear the thing now.

You can buy very expensive compressors Mine is an £85 job & now 8 years old. Not to forget a more
expensive unit produces just the same pressurized air as my £85 unit.

Extraction . If you can afford go for a spray booth & extract The amount of junk (acrylics more than oil) the filters catch is quite phenomenal. I vacumn clean the filters every two months. If you do not catch it your lungs will plus also you work area. Mask in my opinion essential. You only get one pair of lungs. They are already subjected to abuse why increase it.

Airbrush. Buy the best you can as that is your most important weapon.

Cleaning. I spew 2 or 3 cups with just water. Cotton bud soaked in Cleaner to remove as much conjealed paint from the cup. Then 2 cups of Vallejo Airbrush Cleaner. Always take the needle out between the two Vallejo cups to ensure it is clean.

Practice lots of. A bit of an art. Not to dry as it is not smooth not to wet as it dribbles. Just nicely wet an in between.

Such fun

Laurie

[Tim Marlow]

Dale, an airbrush is a tool that most modellers eventually aspire to. There is a learning curve involved, like any good tool, but it is well worth the time investment.

As a tool for becoming familiar with the trials and tribulations of air brushing the one you have indicated is a good starting point. One day you may want to improve the brush, but this one will be a good introduction to brush use and the post-use stripping and cleaning regime. It will also be cheap to repair if your inexperience accidentally leads to any damage.
You are right about the use, by the way…..air on, paint on, paint off, air off is the way to go.

What you will gain over a hairy brush is principally time. Both can lay down a good smooth base coat of primer, paint, or varnish but it will take a fraction of the time with an airbrush. Some camouflage patterns are easily achieved with an airbrush, but would be really difficult and time consuming with a hairy brush. On the other hand some weathering techniques are easily rendered with a brush, but are more difficult with an airbrush.

In conclusion, an airbrush is a very useful (but not essential) tool to have in your modelling armoury and that set would get you started along the path to proficiency. When you have decided (or not) to purchase, ask again about starter tips and you will get lots more good information.

[dalej2014]

...

Such fun

Laurie

Thank you Laurie. This is all good information. I do feel the finish is lacking sometimes with a regular brush. I know it will probably be covered with weathering eventually (once I've mastered that!), but I still think the base coat has to be right first. Appreciate your comment and feedback.

[dalej2014]

...

In conclusion, an airbrush is a very useful (but not essential) tool to have in your modelling armoury and that set would get you started along the path to proficiency. When you have decided (or not) to purchase, ask again about starter tips and you will get lots more good information.

Thanks Tim. I must admit as a wee lad I drooled over the airbrush ads in modelling magazines, as I'm sure most of us did, as you say, aspiring. The time saving would be an enormous benefit I think. Even with a big brush I still need several thin coats, and means painting, drying etc. I'm sure sure an AB would considerably quicken that process. I also feel the finish I get is less than perfect, however well painted, and I want it "right". Appreciate your comment and thoughts.

[Dave Ward]

Dale,
here's my ha'pence of thoughts. An airbrush is very useful, but not a total solution. If you're into braille scale ( 1/72-87 tanks for example), the airbrush is useful for priming, or a basecoat - but if the model is small, brush painting may be better ( less set up/clean up time! ). As soon as you get into the larger scales, then the a/b comes into it's own.
Having said that there are modellers who use brush only, and their work is just as good as the air crowd. For larger areas ie the hull of a 1/350 battleship, then spraying is the way to go. I say spray, because you can use rattle cans instead of airbrushes for priming & basecoats etc, and the one-off cost can be important.
As to type of airbrush & compressor? Well, it depends on the depth of your pockets, and your commitment!
Personally, I wasn't sure If I was going to get on with airbrushing, so I bought a cheapo AS-186 compressor & a/b bundle off Amazon. The cheap a/b were good to learn on, but were replaced by better ones. The compressor ( with air tank ), is still humming away after 7 years or so. To get the best out of the a/b, you have to practice! Paint mixes, air pressure, nozzle size all have to be tweaked to suit your style. Spray booth - if you're going to be spraying enamels & lacquers, yes!!!! I use water based acrylics, and use a mask & a large cardboard box ( purely to prevent overspray ), but that's my choice ( I don't spend hours airbrushing!
Lengthy reply, but I bet all airbrush users have their own view of things!
Cheers Dave

[dalej2014]

...
Lengthy reply, but I bet all airbrush users have their own view of things!
Cheers Dave

Thanks Dave. Useful information, and appreciated. The aim is primarily for 1/35 armour/AFV/figure modelling, and I'll use in combo with a brush. I'm not rich, by any means, but have some savings, enough for my modest hobbies. I'm talking myself around, and these comments help I'll probably take the plunge with an AB soon, and start practising on old plastic bottles! I'll be using acrylics, and probably use a cardboard box "booth" too. Thanks for commenting.

[Guest]

Dale, I'll just support Dave's comments to you plus a couple more of my own. Like Dave I use a large cardboard box for the booth but a 3M respirator to be safe. I took on the AB just in the last couple of years after many years of brushwork. I've found things I can do with an AB I was not able to do with a brush, but there was a decent learning curve with YouTube videos being a great help.

I've currently got 4 AB's and have sold two others in trying to find what suits. One of them is the cheapest Harder and Steenbeck AB but bought with an extra 0.6 needle for it which has been magic for priming and the biggest time saver. For finer work I use AB's from 0.2 to 0.4. H&S are the easiest to clean in that they allow easy needle removal from the front. Like many other personal instruments, AB preferences are very subjective and you might take a while to find the one that suits you. A near new AB will resell quickly to get back circa 75% of your outlay so you might consider the 25% lost a good investment if and when you find the AB you like best. It's a fun journey that doesn't need to be too expensive.

Good luck!

[Tim Marlow]

Hi Murfie.
Just for info, I can remove the needle from the back of my Iwatta for cleaning in about two seconds…..and can remove the caps, nozzle, and paint cup in about another ten. This leaves the paint path and components completely clear for cleaning. I’m not sure if all Iwatta are like that and never had a H&S, but I think it would be difficult to find a brush that is easier to clean.

Most of the good names are easily disassembled, from what I’ve read from others, but the starter set listed by Dale will be a good starting point. A more expensive option is not needed as a first brush.

[Guest]

Mmm Tim apologies :flushed:. Easiest brush to clean is an H & S. Needle back nozzle & cap out & in a pool of cleaner. Twiddle around. Blow through with an H & S blower.

Iwatta better engineered but the very devil to clean comparably to H & S. Take your pick.

I use H & S for dirty work prime & varnish. Iwatta for Tamiya.

I would always pull the needle from the rear & replace from the rear. From the front there is a good chance of damaging the seal in the barrel. Apologies for disagreeing Murfie :rolling:

Insert from the rear & in 20 years have only had to replace one needle. Jumped into the flooring.

Laurie