Ongoing Tamiya 1.32 Spitfire

[Guest]

Hi again folks,

The Spitfire build is coming along well. Have got to a stage where some very slight gaps need filling along the bottom of the fuselage. Q1:- What filler?surfacer would be recommended.

Q2:- has anyone used the Tamiya pastel weathering materials. Have been using oil wash up til now but wonder if I should use something more 'dusty' for inside wheel wells and depicted down flaps etc. what are the general thoughts?

Thanks again lads ... Pete.

[stona]

I take it these are very small gaps.

Very small gaps can be filled with Tippex or some other liquid paper. This way you don't have much clean up to do apart from a wipe with a damp cloth.

Slightly bigger I use two methods.

First is the good old superglue and baking soda. Run some glue into the gap and then sprinkle some baking soda onto it. Blow off the excess powder and then sand smooth within a couple of minutes. DON'T leave it too long or the glue will cure harder than the surrounding plastic causing you a load of grief! I've just used this method on a gap where the engines on my Me262 fit the trailing edge of the wing but now I've primed there's nothing to see or I'd post a piccy.

Second is Tamiya putty. I apply the putty to a small gap with a toothpick and then go over it with a cotton bud moistened with nail varnish remover (acetone based). You should be able to avoid the need for any sanding if you get it right. This and other similar putties will shrink so you may need to give it a couple of goes.

I've never used the Tamiya weathering kits,someone who has will be along soon!

Cheers

Steve

[BarryW]

Pete - I would use either Vallejo's filler or Mr Dissolved putty, depending where the gaps are. In awkward corners the dissolved putty is particularly good. Limit the spread of the filly and therefore the sanding required by applying making take each side of a gap, close up. Check for shrinkage before removing it. The Vallejo filler dries very hard and adheres well, best to wipe some of the excess of within a few minutes and sanding within the hour.

As for weathering.

I use Flory washes. These are water and clay based and work really well, a very versatile product. Once you have your final gloss coat (having sealed the decals with it) make sure its properly cured (at least 24 hours) apply the wash by brush all over, the model will look a mess but don't worry. Let it dry, half hour should do it, the with circular movements and a wet rag or kitchen towel rub the surface removing the wash and rubbing it into detail. The final 'rub' should always be in the direction of airflow. I find this wash works well inside wheel wells too but removing a lot less of it working it onto corners etc to achieve the effect you need. It is very versatile.

I tend to do the wash after ding paint chips and scrapes. After the wash is when I apply oil leaks in strategic places and gun and exhaust residue for which pigments are good or artist pastels that you sand into a fine dust and apply by brush. Finally the whole lot is sealed by a matt coat....

Hope that lot helps....

Everyone has their favourite way of doing these things and others will make other suggestions. Experiment and try them out to see what suits you best.

[Guest]

Thanks Steve. You always come up trumps. You raise a good point re the primer stage as this may well fill in what tiny gaps there are, negating the need for filling. I'll give that a try first. This certainly is a great kit. If my photo skills are up to it a may pluck up courage to post a few shots as I have taken a few for posterity!

Thanks again. Pete

[Guest]

Thanks Barry, Thats just what i'm after. I'll make a copy of this for reference.

The oil paint wash mix has worked fine for most things but I don't know if you find that it tends to look a bit 'gritty' when it dries but the 'stand off' effect seems to work. Are the flory washes exclusive to Flory models?

I must say everyone is very helpul on this forum. Many thanks, Pete

[BarryW]

John has them in the shop:

Weathering Models, AK interactive weathering effects for scale models

I tend to use mostly the Dark Dirt and Black washes but as you can see there are several and they can be mixed too to help get whatever effect you want. I like them because they are just so versatile and manageable.