Airbrushing Vallejo and other acrylics

[BarryW]

That’s a matter of opinion. Many people simply don’t know how to apply it.

That is a little patronising.

I used Vallejo MA for over 5 years successfully and, yes, it is a learning curve and with a lot of effort you can get good results.

Then I tried MRP lacquers and immediately gave away 200 Vallejo and bought a full range of MRP. They really were that much better and it was worth every penny.

What’s not to like: MRP is dry and cured within 30 minutes ready to mask over, rather than wait 24 hours of more for Vallejo to cure and, in poor humidity, Vallejo could be longer. With MRP, no tip dry, no adding retarder, no adhesion issues, no thinning even for fine lines. MRP are consistent in use across their colour range and regardless of how old the bottle of paint is.

Well, to be fair, there is one downside of MRP, they smell. But it’s worth it and the only reason to suffer the quirks of Vallejo might be it being less odorous.

So please don't patronise people the way you did Dave, it is quite correct to say that there are better options even for those who put up with Vallejo

[outrunner]

I would say, each to their own I have tried Vallejo and just could not get on with them and stuck with Tamiya acrylics. For me the limited colour range is not a problem with the stuff I build and lacquer paints are a no no as I just can not tolerate the smell. As for thinning ratios and air pressures what works for you is the important thing. Having said that I do use Vallejo Metal colour silver which seems to work OK for me.

Andy.

[KarlW]

I used VMA with no little issues for years, even without flow improvers and retarders. Necessity of having my bench in the house and ease of getting my hands on them made them a no brainer.
But I always preferred "hot" paints and after seeing reports on MRP made the switch. (Though I sold all my VMA instead of giving them away.)
I've since explored AK Real, and Tamiya LP (The Tamiya are the smelliest.)
And I will say this, making the switch has been the biggest boost to my mojo ever. Just the ease of use, ease of cleaning the airbrush, ease of correction, it's all just easier. I've had 4 colour paint jobs done and dusted in an evening, 3 of the 4 down in under an hour, using masking tape. The last as a quick 5 minutes before bed as the airbrush clean up is simple.
The addition of an activated carbon filter to the spray booth has been a great help too, it really makes a big difference controlling the smell better than I hoped.

[David Lovell]

Paint thinning and correct air pressure are the only two ingredients to successfull airbrushing ,as far as I'm concerned if you have to result to alchemy just to spray a certain brand of paint it doesn't say much for that product. Go on any modelling web site ninty nine percent of peoples problems arise from VMA ,dont you think its strange they've bought out a hand full of products to TRY making there products less painful to use ,if you can't get on with something why continue to struggle with it .

[KarlW]

Paint thinning and correct air pressure are the only two ingredients to successfull airbrushing ,as far as I'm concerned if you have to result to alchemy just to spray a certain brand of paint it doesn't say much for that product. Go on any modelling web site ninty nine percent of peoples problems arise from VMA ,dont you think its strange they've bought out a hand full of products to TRY making there products less painful to use ,if you can't get on with something why continue to struggle with it .

Agreed Dave, I never used a retarder or flow enhancer with VMA, got good results.
You could argue that any product that you have to add other stuff to isn't really fit for purpose and should be returned.
Like yourself I had a pretty heavy investment in VMA, and I'm a bit of a miser, so a wholesale change of paints wasn't easy, but it was worth it.

[colin m]

Right chaps, all very interesting, but I think we will call this thread done.