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I know what you mean Bob, but with a couple of extra steps it can list the manufacturers too. Still not a good as model shade for that and a bit of a faff, but at least it's upgraded regularly so might come in handy as a second option if you can't find what you need.
Hit the red "calculate equivalences" button at the bottom, push the slider over to the left, hit calculate and you get to this page:
I have to say that I am not sure why a colour converter is generally needed. There are many brands that provide the FS, RLM, BS and other colour standard codes. All you need to do is research the actual colour standard code of the subject and match it to the paint. There is a huge wealth of information online to help. Admittedly some paint brands don’t provide these codes and that’s a good reason not to use those brands.
I have had the Model Paint App on my phone for several years and have never needed to use it.
Perhaps it might be useful for some subject matter but it is certainly not needed for aircraft and, I suspect, armour.
some paint brands don’t provide these codes and that’s a good reason not to use those brands.
Beware that some claim to match standards (or known research into real-world paint colours for which the standard has been lost) but don’t — at least not for all colours.
Beware that some claim to match standards (or known research into real-world paint colours for which the standard has been lost) but don’t — at least not for all colours.
That is true of course. The real issue being wartime paint standards because there were variations caused by shortages. Also colours are often developed from original paint chips and they do vary, partly for the reasons above but also due to weathering and fading. That is why, say RLM02 or RLM81 might differ between model paint brands due to different chips being used. You can add to that how some paint companies try to reflect scale effect that lightens the shade.
The truth is nobody really knows what is right and wrong with some ‘historical’ colours, particularly wartime ones. There may be colours you are used to seeing, resulting in claims that another brand is wrong, but that is purely a personal interpretation. After all there was a time when everyone seemed to think Humbrol 30 was RAF Dark Green!
So selecting a favoured brand and using the colour standards works as well as anything can.
Not sure about aircraft, but with military vehicles part of the problem is that for many colours, nobody really knows what the original colours even were, because none are known to have been preserved. Even with ones that have, manufacturers’ interpretations of them vary. I have a couple of different bottles and tins all purporting to be British SCC 2 brown, for example, but no two are the same — some aren’t even close to any of the others, except in all being a light–medium brown.
In the end, I agree that it’s best to pick what you like or think is best, and go with that. Though I would do that myself by choosing individual paints regardless of brand rather than a manufacturer’s whole range that I trust better than the rest
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