Sticking Clear Plastic Parts

[Guest]

Hope this is the right section as it is stretching it as a paint subject.

In the 8 models so far not had much success with sticking clear plastic. The bond always seems to be fragile. In the latest I have tried Humbrol make a window type, Jewellers glue & the last after total failures by the first two PVA which seems to be the most successful so far. Should add that I have given them overnight to cure. Also I have dried them in a garden incubator which has a temperature of approx 65 to 70 degrees.

Be interested to find how others go about this.

1. What glue do you find most satisfactory ?

2. How do you prepare the edges to be glued ? Do you etch & if so how do you go about it ?

3. Any difference in approach to clear to clear or clear to grey model plastic ?

4. How do you apply the glue ?

Bit of info. Found some non-fogging C/A. But unlike most C/A it takes a time to go off. Tried the special accelerator which is in this group of glues. Sends the glue off but then fogs the glue. Just great. Moaned & they said you need their special unfogged accelerator but found that applying it was so complicated I gave in. Also add that after applying the accelerator to the non fog on a piece of spare canopy it peeled off easily. Amazing the canopy remained un-fogged. Round the houses ?

Laurie

[Ian M]

I use either Microscale kristal klear, or Gator glue which are both, for all intents and purpose pva glues. I have also used Tamiya extra thin. Have to be very careful with that one. Ordinary every day CA glue. Just remember to dip the clear parts in something like jonsons klear first then it wont fog. (as easily).

Ian M

[stona]

Like Ian I use "Gator's Grip" or a similar white glue. I don't do anything special to the plastic,just clean it up normally. I apply the glue along the edge of the part,not the model,with a toothpick. Anything that oozes out can be removed with a damp cloth or cotton bud.

I've found both Tamiya Extra Thin and CA glues may fog a clear part even after a dip in Klear unless you are very careful!

Cheers

Steve

[Guest]

I use PVA white glue. You can water it down slightly to make it flow that little bit better but generally any excess can be removed with a damp cloth so it's not really a problem. If it is a flat part I would rub it on a piece of wet and dry paper stuck to a flat surface and then rub a piece across the model surface. If you don't have this luxury then a simple dressing up with abrasive pads or wet and dry does a good job. I also glue wet and dry paper to wooden coffee stirrers to give a selection of very useful abrasive pads.

PVA is effective and safe for clear parts but, as Stona says, Gator Grip is just as good as are any one of a number of water based PVA type glues. The one I use is Resin W woodwork glue. Basically just PVA!

[Vaughan]

Humbrol ClearFix is my choice of adhesive applied with a cocktail stick. But I would agree with you that it is very fragile as I experienced when trying to mask around the mid section of the cockpit on the Ju87 that I'm building at the moment. I have heard that the PVA based ones are good Like Zap "formula 560"canopy glue but have never tried them. I will stick to the ClearFix for the moment you just have to be a bit careful.

Vaughan

[AlanG]

Gator glue for me too

[yak face]

I use the formula 560 and have found it to be very good. Its basically a type of pva but gets a really nice hold and is easy to apply and clean up, and of course dries clear. I apply it with a cocktail stick to one surface and then hold together and wipe round the edges of the canopy with a damp No 1 finger. The idea of keying the mating surfaces of canopy and fuselage would probably give a better bond , although i must admit i usually just stick it straight on! Cheers tony

[Guest]

I use Formula 560, never had any issues, it just does it's job

[yak face]

Maybe formula 560 is something to consider for the shop john? It seems a few people (including me!) have found it to be invaluable cheers tony

[colin m]

Being a bit cheap I did try proper wood PVA, which didn't really stick too well at all. So I bought some 'Micro Kristal Klear' (why the spelling ?) which I find does work very well.

Colin M..

[Guest]

i use a cheap PVA glue sold as a kids graft glue applied with a toothpick and it seems to stick canopies just fine for me

[Guest]

PVA glue for me too, applied with a fine brush, can be watered down 50% to run into any little cracks and it able to be painted over with acrylics. i buff the edges with a fine wet and dry but on fiddly parts just a very fine scoring with a craft knife will give the glue a good enough key.

[Guest]

Thanks guys for your time in producing those answers.

Bit mad & like to experiment as I am going to get the Gator & 6000 stuff. For me yesterday was a disaster with PVA. Both turretts on my Wellington collapsed.

Interesting as I thought I would have a go with Tamiya Thin Cement on parts hidden when fitted. I tacked two or three pieces &, despite panic when I saw the Tamiya travel like a French Express Train, no fogging at all & no noticeable difference where the Tamiya had penetrated. This was on the frame lines to be painted.

Laurie

[Guest]

As no one has mentioned it I use Revell Contacta Clear - which is just PVA but specially formulated for clear plastic parts. After assembling canopies with it it seems to cure after an hour and sets nice and solid, it is unaffected by using Klear.

Ivor

[Guest]

Got my Gaytor glue.

Converted it is so easy to use. Water soluble yet rather like Evostick (in consistency) .

Slight foaming (as it cures ) & sticks well, suppose that is what glue is for. Think as it foams, ie expands, that the glued pieces need to be held in joint until set so that the glue expands from the joint not in the joint. Only thing to make sure of on clear parts is to clean off before setting as it dries a slight yellow. Cuts & cleans off after curing very easily.

Laurie