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Dunking canopies in Klear

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  • Guest

    #1

    Dunking canopies in Klear

    Or to be more precise, dunking Windows in Klear. Am working on the Revell 1:24 Samba Van and it has many windows. I keep hearing that poeple dunk canopies into Klear. It fills me with trepidation. Is there anything I should know or is it simply a matter of dunking and then hanging out to dry?

    Thanks

    Aidan
  • Guest

    #2
    Thats all I do, I dunk the canopy in Klear, and as you say hang it out to dry.Dont place it on anything shiny to dry or it could stick to it. I hold it to get most of the drips off, then place it on a napkin, then a few minutes later, place it on another napkin to dry out. Then you get a beautiful clear glass.

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    • Guest

      #3
      what he said /\

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      I just sit my canopies etc on edge on a piece of kitchen towel in my drying box, (plastic box with a plastic sheet cover, helps stop the dust from settling onto it.

      Klear dissolves in itself too so if you mess up, (nigh on impossible), re-dip it.

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      • Guest

        #4
        Well you are both right - I took the plunge and dunked a window - amazing results!

        Thanks

        Aidan

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        • Guest

          #5
          Just wondering about this canopy dunking, would one normally do any painting before dunking or do you paint after? Many thanks!

          Apologies for the thread resurrection!!

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          • Guest

            #6
            dunk first, paint after. The paint takes well and as previously if you mess up clean off with an ammonia based cleaner and start again.

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            • stona
              SMF Supporters
              • Jul 2008
              • 9889

              #7
              Yep,and the Klear also offers some protection from masking. When you remove masking you can scrape off any errant paint (I use a cocktail stick) and re-apply a bit of Klear with a fine brush or cotton bud to tidy up.

              Steve

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              • Guest

                #8
                I find dunking the canopies in Klear is good insurance against any problems because of the protective 'shell' they get. As m1ks said any probs and you can go back and start again. I also use Klear as a 'glue' for the canopies to stick to the fuselage, can be applied with a brush to canopy and fuselage (like an impact adhesive) but whole assembly needs to be left undisturbed for 24 hours to allow Klear to set, this can also allow removal of canopy at a later date if required, but mainly gives a perfect bond without any adhesive showing. It's wonderful stuff!

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                • Guest

                  #9
                  Hi there,

                  This is my first post but I saw your request and you've had some great answers and better still, some great success with Klear already - nice one. Just thought I'd also mention that we've had some new Aqua Gloss varnish from Alclad2 - really impressive stuff that is excellent for dunking canopies - easily as good as J. Klear. all the best, Geoff

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                  • Vaughan
                    SMF Supporters
                    • Apr 2011
                    • 3174

                    #10
                    Hi there

                    Just a question about Johnson's klear as you know you can no longer buy the original klear so is the new version any good as it is now known as pledge multi-surface wax. It's not clear in appearance a milky colour and has a perfume smell. I've read on other forums that it takes a lot longer to dry over 24 hours. Has anyone tried it ? and does anyone use it as a pre-coat for decals? I'm a bit reluctant to try it incase I ruin a model.

                    Vaughan

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