Time to Get Moving

[Guest]

Hi

I have drawn up a rough plan of attack for my Tamiya 1/72 Focke Wulfe plane after getting as much advice as I can on this forum, getting all the right paints and trying to get on with life in general (ie work etc giving me no time plus a distinct lack of motivation!!). I would be grateful if any of you more experienced hands could tell me what you think and give any advice as I m still unsure about certain aspects of my idea/plans. Anyway here goes:

1. Undercoat with grey Humbrol acrylic spray can paint on the sprue (thin coats applied in several sweeps if needed) The model is in grey plastic!!! Mistake number 1?

2. Airbrush black Lifecolor acrylic along the recesses etc after building according to the instructions and practice with my airbrush which I havent even used yet!!! (will this be beyond my ability as a total novice on a small 1/72 plane?)

3. Hand paint/airbrush camo as needed with Tamiya paints. (Can I use Lifecolor thinner with Tamiya paints?)

4. Use Pledge Klear to apply gloss coat for decals.(Not sure to apply with brush or airbrush - Windowlene is needed to clean brushes etc of Klear? Will Windowlene wreck my airbrush?)

5. Decals- Looking tricky as they are extremely small.

6. Pledge Klear coat over Decals.

7. Weathering. Lifecolor Tensocrom Set 2 (for smoke and fuel stains) and artists pastels as after a discussion with a few members of the forum I decided that they sounded better value for money than Mig pigments.

8.Seal the whole lot in with several layers of Flair Spectrum Paint -Matt Clear.

Any advice is really really appreciated as I do want to make a real go of this how ever long it takes as I am new to the hobby (hence the mad amount of questions). This forum has been invaluable with some of the advice I have got up to now and once again apologies about the length of my post.

[yak face]

Hi neill , you seem to have got the general idea spot on, the primer is ok to put on while still on the sprue but most people generally prime after all the main parts have been assembled and any joints /seams filled and sanded as necessary, this way the primer will show up if any more work is needed before the top coat of paint. I dont know about the lifecolour thinner being compatible with the tamiya paints , hopefully someone else is familiar with lifecolour stuff, personally ive always used tamiya thinners. The klear is a matter of preference but i always brush it on, its self levelling and easy to apply just be very careful not to put too much on or it will run and pool on the lower areas- have a practice on an old milk carton first. If you do decide to spray it make sure you clean your airbrush out straight away as it can be a bugger to get out if it dries in the airbrush. Hope this goes a little way to answering some of your queries , cheers tony

[Guest]

Plan sounds good with a few ponters. First of all, you can mix and match most acrylic paints with no worries. No reason why you cannot use Tamiya for one part of the camo and Lifecolor for the other.

On a 1:72 scale, I would not worry too much about the black pre shading on the panel lines. You would have to do these very fine at that scale so you need to practice on a pice of paper or card to see just how fine you can get it. However, it is questionable if at that scale, pre shading is required. Nice if you can do it but don't worry if you can't.

I personally would not prime up on the sprues. I know that some do this but I find it easier to do the bulk of the build and prime the built model. Obviously you need to do this prior to adding the bits like external weapons,bombs etc. The main reason for this is that when you prime on the sprues, you paint the surfaces that need to have glue on them. This can result in a weak joint or the need to scrape off the paint before you glue. Also, where the part is cut off the sprue, there will be no primer. Only a small thing but it could be an issue. Lastly, one of the things about priming is that it helps to see what joints will look like when painted so any remedial filling or sanding can be done and re primed prior to final colour.

Other than that, and it is just my preferred way of working, your plan looks fine. Look forward to seeing it being built.

EDIT:- Tony beat me to it lol

[stona]

Okay,here's my opinion,that's all it is. There are many ways of skinning a cat!

1 That's fine,but when you remove the parts from the sprues and clean up the attachment point(s) you may need to touch up.

2 I wouldn't pre-shade a 1/72 model,but if you think you can do it go for it. You'd be better of post shading at this scale.

3 I don't know the answer to your thinner question.

Airbrush your camo. At this scale I'd apply the lighter colour first all over the model and post shade it. To post shade don't worry about spraying your lightened shade into the centre of the panels,just do some general mottling and streaking to break the colour up a bit. Mask this colour off according to the scheme Fw190s had a soft edge to their camouflage but at 1/72 this is effectively hard! I would use Blu-Tac sausages (about 3mm) to mask the edge of the colour and then fill in with tape. Spray at 90 degrees to the masking and you'll get a nice ever so slightly softened edge. Post shade this colour before removing the masking!

The mottling on the sides/tail can either be done free-hand or by spraying through holes roughly punched in a piece of card. You'll need to experiment.

4 Klear coat,yes,brush it on with a flat brush. I never airbrush the stuff.

5 Cut individual decals out. Hold the decal in some tweezers and dunk it in some warm water for about 15-20 seconds. Put it down,face up,on a shiny surface until the decal releases from the backing. I use a sheet of glass from a little picture frame. Put some decal setting solution or water on the model where you want to place the decal. Hold the backing in your tweezers and slide the decal into place with a paint brush. When you're happy with its position roll a cotton bud over it to remove most of the water and then smooth it down,being sure to remove all liquid and air from underneath,with a tissue.

You can make decals conform to detail by using a solution like Microsol.

6 Yes,make sure everything is dry first.

7 That's fine. Not my method but you should go with what suits you. We're back to skinning that poor cat here lol.

8 One or possibly two coats should be plenty

Good luck,remember every model is a learning experience. I've never built one that I'm 100% happy with and I've been at it for....well....a while!

Any questions or clarification just fire away.

Cheers

Steve

Edit Tony AND Graham beat me to it...I must type faster!

[Guest]

Thank You

Hi everyone

Thank you so much for the advice. I am not understating it when I say I would be lost without some of the advice given. The employees at one of the model shops where I go are not particularly helpful. Sad really when I am asking questions from the point of view of somone that hasn't a clue!! (or didnt do until early October 2010)

[stona]

The employees at one of the model shops where I go are not particularly helpful.

That is sad. Surely the more people who get into or come back to the hobby the better it is for everyone. Particularly a model shop! A little help and encouragement doesn't cost anything.

At least you can be sure of friendly and free advice here.

Cheers

Steve

[Guest]

Just to be difficult, if the model is grey plastic, in 1/72nd scale I really wouldn't bother priming. Priming is only of value if you need a significant colour chanbge from the plastic colour to the top coat or if you need to ensure the top coat has a good key. In 1/72nd the disadvantages, ie time, effort and covering just that litle bit of detail outweighs the advantages. I really wouldn't bother priming unless you had to do a lot of filling, sanding and rescribing and you then wanted to see an even consistent primed coat to show up any blemishes.

As for pre-shading, there are a lot of modellers who question the value of the technique in larger scales and I agree with the comments above that it is not worth doing in 1/72nd.

The other points you make seem to follow normal practise so I would follow your plan. If it was me I wouldn't bother priming and I wouldn't bother pre-shading.