Pledge future?

[Guest]

Hi all.

Can you lads tell me what to thin ppledge future with for brush and airbrush aplication, and what do I use to matt it down with?

I have experimented with using it straight out the bottle as a setting solution for decals and it seems to work OK for that.

I use to thin my Tamiya clear acrylic with isopro alcohol and matt it with Tamiya flat base. Not sure about the Future, and if it is touch dry, can I then decal over it? I see you guys in the UK need to wait LOOOOONG before it cures. I did a test by brushing (un thinned) onto a model ,rather heavly, and it was cured withing a few hours. Will this then be OK for further aplications of decals and washes ect?

Thanx

Theuns

[Vaughan]

Hi Theuns

I use the new version which is a milky colour but dries clear. A lot of people allow it to cure overnight, but to be honest with you it's a floor polish and it does dry a lot quicker. I give it a good few hours and don't thin it. I use a soft 1/2 inch brush and it goes on fine for me just don't apply it too thickly as it does tend to pool even though it's supposed to be self levelling. I've never applied it with an airbrush but gather you don't need to thin it although you do have to make sure you clean the brush well afterwards, some people use ammonia. To get a matt or satin finished I just spray on vallejo modelair once the Pledge has had a few hours to dry. I hope this helps I'm sure that the guys on the forum will have some more advice.

Vaughan

[Guest]

Hi Theuns

Like Vaughan I use mine neat straight from the bottle. I do this for hand brushing & airbrushing.

I leave at least 12 hours between coats and that's simply because I prefer it to be cured rather than just dry. I found it handled washes & stuff better that way.

I use Vallejo matt when needed, although I've found my weathering techniques provide a natural matting effect. It probably wouldn't apply to aircraft though.

Cheers

Patrick

[stona]

What they said ^^^.

I'm still on the original formula which doesn't need thinning for airbrushing. I do leave 12 hours between coats.On the bottle it says "apply a second coat of Klear after 24 hours" but I don't usually wait that long as I'm re-coating a model,not a floor.

I always achieve my final finish,be that matt or satin,by a final coat of the relevant varnish.

Cheers

Steve

[Guest]

And just for your information...ammonia can be found in alot of window cleaners. No need to go looking for a bottle of pure ammonia.

[stona]

And just for your information...ammonia can be found in alot of window cleaners. No need to go looking for a bottle of pure ammonia.

Yes it can though in the UK you can still buy ammonia solutions.I bought some from a local hardware store not that long ago.It's called "Kleen Off" by Jeyes and is described as a multi purpose household cleaner. It is far too concentrated for modelling purposes and need diluting by at least 10:1.

Cheers

Steve

[Guest]

Thanx for the info lads, I will experiment a bit, but you have basically told me what I needed to know

Theuns

[Guest]

Just been airbrushing Pledge Klear tonight as it happens and found it's fine straight from the bottle with no thinning.

In fact I needed to turn down the needle as it was that thin I was emptying my cup rather quick.

Out of interest guys what pressure do you apply it at? I started at 20psi but went down to about 12-15psi second time round.

Colin.

[Guest]

I did a test to brush it onto a tail (with soft brush) and was extremly surprised at how well it levels out and the high gloss it gives!

Theuns

[stona]

Hi Colin,in a way Theuns has answered your question!

It is easy to brush it on as he describes. I brush it because I'm lazy and can't be arsed cleaning out an airbrush after spraying!

Cheers

Steve

[Guest]

Steve, I sent you a PM re the ME 262 in USAF markings, did you recieve it?

I will be assembling the little Fokker D-7 later and will brushpaint it with future (even the matt coat for the real WW1 effect) I will post pix in the "under construction" section tonight.

Theuns