Vallejo Gloss Varnish

[Guest]

Thanks for replying Laurie. I have to admit that I'm getting frustrated with this varnising. This is my Model T Ford kit. I put it to oneside some months ago because I could not get the paint job right. Then having got the paint job right I'm anxious not to ruin it and have to strip it all down and start again. I'm still working on test plastic. I have Klear but I cannot get on with it. It either pools, or it leaves brush strokes - my lack of skills obviously.

So I have to use Vallejo which was your recommendation I think. How far from the work should the airbrush be? You think light coats at about 15-20 psi or heavy coats? I know you said that I'd have to apply more than one coat. depending upon the required gloss level. Are we talking 2-3 coats or more? I have to say that I was surprised when I sprayed on one coat of Vallejo varnish and it turned my lovely black gloss paint into matt. Seems to defeat the purpose. If you can be bothered to reply (again!) many thanks.

Aidan

[Guest]

Aidan coincidentally I have spent the afternoon with Vallejo Matt (I'll get to the gloss bit, give me a moment )

Right, I have a Badger 100 with the "FINE" head assembly (no idea what measurement) and I have just used vallejo matt varnish straight out the bottle no thinners.. With the air button DOWN on the airbrush, the pressure is at 20psi and I can vouch for this working very well with no immediate clogging or pooling! Just need to be careful not to increase the paint flow too much.

Right - gloss. I only use Klear and Tamiya Gloss. Klear is easier to deal with. Put the required amount of klear into the airbrush cup then add a couple of DROPS of thinner, whether it be a branded one, windscreen fluid, or surgival spirit/alcohol. Then mix and spray on. I am not tempted to deal with klear as a one coat solution - i always apply 2-3 coats with a good few hours in between. Apart from my own cack handedness and overdoing it, I have not experienced many issues doing it this way

Apologies for the war & peace response, but since I've just been dealing with varnish for a few hours, I thought i'd take the time to reply properly - i know how frustratying it is. Always remember - the MOdel T will always be there, you have plenty test pieces, cereal boxes, coke bottles, milk cartons. patience and it will be fine!

Hope this helps.

Stuart

[Guest]

Thank you Stuart for the hints and the encouragement. You are right of course! Just one query please. You suggest that thw Klear will take any thinner. That surprises me, given that a solvent is ammonia. I have alchohol which I use for cleaning prior to priming so I'll give that a go! Thanks again!

Aidan

[Guest]

Thanks for replying Laurie. I have to admit that I'm getting frustrated with this varnising. This is my Model T Ford kit. I put it to oneside some months ago because I could not get the paint job right. Then having got the paint job right I'm anxious not to ruin it and have to strip it all down and start again. I'm still working on test plastic. I have Klear but I cannot get on with it. It either pools, or it leaves brush strokes - my lack of skills obviously. So I have to use Vallejo which was your recommendation I think. How far from the work should the airbrush be? You think light coats at about 15-20 psi or heavy coats? I know you said that I'd have to apply more than one coat. depending upon the required gloss level. Are we talking 2-3 coats or more? I have to say that I was surprised when I sprayed on one coat of Vallejo varnish and it turned my lovely black gloss paint into matt. Seems to defeat the purpose. If you can be bothered to reply (again!) many thanks.

Aidan

No bother whatsoever Aidan.

Light coats are best as otherwise you will get the runs never pleasant !

Vallejo is very understanding it will tolerate a bit of over "doneness" but best not to test the theory. Best thing is to test on a random piece with a number of coats this will give you a clue as to if Vallejo gloss is the thing for you & gives the required gloss. If you need high gloss I wonder if you are better off with gloss paint. Experiment & find out. Be interesting to find you results. Must say your results are peculiar as I have found 2 coats gives a reasonable for decals.

My motto if you are not sure test it.

Laurie

[Guest]

Thank you Stuart for the hints and the encouragement. You are right of course! Just one query please. You suggest that thw Klear will take any thinner. That surprises me, given that a solvent is ammonia. I have alchohol which I use for cleaning prior to priming so I'll give that a go! Thanks again!Aidan

Hi Aidan, I shall clarify, I should have said originally.

For Klear, as well as acrylic paints and varnishes I have successfully used Surgical spirit, windscreen fluid (concentrated) and meths all with good results.

For oil and enamel paint I use Tesco white spirit and I have no reason to change! The cheaper the better!

[Guest]

No bother whatsoever Aidan.Light coats are best as otherwise you will get the runs never pleasant !

Vallejo is very understanding it will tolerate a bit of over "doneness" but best not to test the theory. Best thing is to test on a random piece with a number of coats this will give you a clue as to if Vallejo gloss is the thing for you & gives the required gloss. If you need high gloss I wonder if you are better off with gloss paint. Experiment & find out. Be interesting to find you results. Must say your results are peculiar as I have found 2 coats gives a reasonable for decals.

My motto if you are not sure test it.

Laurie

Laurie I AM using gloss paint. Maybe I'm expecting too much. I'm expecting the gloss finish after the varnish, to be glossier than the original gloss paint and it isn't. It's the same - it's just like a protective coating. You refer to decals and yes, the coat is very smooth, but it was before the varnish, with the gloss black paint finish. This, being a car, needs a glossier finsih, at lease in my mind. As you say it's peculier. This is my black spot!

Regards

Aidan

[Adrian "Marvel" Reynolds]

I read on other forums that a lot of people use actual car laquer, be careful though I tried it a while back and it ate my decals, course a coat of something on them first would have saved em

Adrian

[Guest]

Car lacquer (cellulose) might work, but you'd need to be VERY light with the coats and as said, try to coat any decals with something beforehand. It's mean stuff but top quality finish if used correctly.

Stuart

[Guest]

Laurie I AM using gloss paint. Aidan

Realize that Aidan. Just stating that you may be better off with the original gloss rather than trying to enhance with varnish.

[Guest]

Laurie I don't think the all caps was a SHOUT haha!

You make a good point though - might be worth trying decals on top of glossed but not varnished paint. Although I coat in Klear but that's probably more habit than necessity.

Worth a shot...

Stuart

[Guest]

Thank you Laurie - one final question (I hope) please. In your opinion, should I be able to get a better gloss with gloss varnish on top of gloss paint, than by just using a gloss paint on its own?

Thanks as always

Aidan

PS Was it my CAPS being referred to? Not intended to cause upset Laurie - it was my way of stressing the word - I should have used Italics. My apologies if I have offended.

[Guest]

Caps not a problem I only get angry when people hit me on the nose. My wife has a fantastic right hook she is also good in the clinches ! Wot a dear she protects me well.

The answer is I do not know Aidan. Best thing is to do a test on an odd piece of plastic. I am always testing bits & pieces to see results it is the best way of seeing if they come up to your expectation or not. Interested to hear the result as well.

Laurie

[Guest]

I do not think it makes any difference, in fact it may be worse over a gloss paint. If you look at how the professionals work, they always rub down/polish the colour coat before adding the final gloss lacquer so, in modelling I think the same would apply.

[Guest]

Good point Graham. When dealing with surfacing/refurbing car paint, the pros "flat back" all the paint with fine grit paper then lacquer over that, to prevent orange peel effect. To a similar extent, us modellers' gloss paint might be preventing the clear coat from keying sufficiently to provide the effect needed.

HTH

Stuart

[Guest]

I'm grateful to all of you for your suggestions etc. Laurie is right though - I need to experiment. I've prepared six surfaces and have applied Vallejo grey primer. After 24 hours I shall apply coats of black matt and black gloss. Then after another 24 hours I shall begin applying gloss varnish to some and not to others so I can do a comparison. Will report back.

Aidan