Choice of filler and airbrush cleaner

[Guest]

Having decided to use Xtracyclix acrylic paints, I (a returning beginner) need to buy some filler for the possible seam at the join of eg., the two parts of a fuselage (I hate joins showing). What filler should I get? John's store has the following:

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What airbrush cleaner please? Is John's suitable?

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Thanks for help.

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[stona]

For small gaps you can use anything from a thick superglue to Tippex.

For "average" seams you can use the Squadron White or the Humbrol filler. I usually use Tamiya's version but recently dug out an old tube of that Humbrol stuff and was pleasantly surprised with the results. Larger problems might need something like an epoxy filler. I've used Milliput and found it does the job,crucially it doesn't shrink like the solvent based fillers.

Most so called surface fillers are nothing more than primers with body rather than fillers. They will only deal with minor surface blemishes.I've heard nothing but good things about the Alclad primer/microfiller.

I use "Muc-Off" from Halfords and methylated spirits to clean acrylics from my airbrush.

Cheers

Steve

[Guest]

Steve has hit it on the head, there is no one filler that will do all jobs. Eventually you will build up a collection that you will rely on and some you will never use again, don't try to get everything at once. To add one to the list, I am getting very fond of the Deluxe Materials Perfect Plastic Putty. This is a very soft putty that dries quite quickly and is, initially, water soluble which means it is great for filling hard to sand gaps like aircraft wing root joins. Just spread the putty over the join and leave a minute then, wit a wet finger tip, wipe off the excess. Chances are you will get a smooth fill with no need to sand. It does sand very well once fully dry but it has to be fully cured before you can 'wet & dry' sand it or it will dissolve, ask me how I found out............

I tend to use airbrush cleaner for flush through but every now and again, I do a full strip down and leave overnight in a bath of Muck Off as Steve mentioned. In fact, I think it was Steve who put me on to it some time ago, you will be amazed at the gunk that comes out.

[Guest]

Steve (Kir) Air brush cleaner. Used to use copious amounts of Vallejo Air Brush Cleaner which is very effective.

Now I use just warmish water. I always strip all parts down. Found that providing I do it it straight away I have no problems whatsoever.

Except for the nozzle & protective cap I draw the needle back remove them & drop them in a small bottle of Airbrush cleaner & jiggle them around & leave soaking as I wash the reminder of the brush.

Varnish after cleaning I squirt a good cup of Vallejo through the system as varnish is the very devil

A warning to preserve your needle. Withdraw the needle back wards 15mm before removing the nozzle. Remove & replace the needle through the front end. Replace the nozzle with the needle withdrawn backwards.

FIller I use Vallejo for small bits & pieces it has a nice small pointed end & you can wipe into ajoint with a wet finger etc.

For fuselage joints I use Mr Surfacer 500. I apply with a small brush along the joint. Leave to dry 10 mins then apply another coat & build. Bit laborious but I find it works perfectly as you will not see a joint. It is about the same hardness as plastic & is easy to sand down with or without water. It does not break away from the plastic at the edges & you get better than a feather edge. As yet never had a joint break open. If you use it you need cellulose thinners to wash your brush.

Laurie

[Guest]

Just an add on to Mr Surfacer.

The filler is also very good for rescribing panel lines lost in filling provided you do it carefully & not with hammer & tongs.

LAurie

[John]

I used Tamiya putty, it's not often I get it in stock and I only managed to get 4 tubes yesterday but I find it really easy to work with

[Guest]

For stona and fenlander:



The search at halford's site:







returned 45 items for "muc-off"!



Which is the one for modelling,please?

--------------------------

Thanks for all the recommendations. An order to SMS is imminent.

[stona]

This one.

Cheers

Steve

[Adrian "Marvel" Reynolds]

Having been a keen mountain biker for many years it never even dawned on me to use my Muc off to clean my airbrush!!

I used to use Milliput for a filler but have Mr Surfacer 500, 1000 and Squadron putty I use more now, like all the above have said its all a matter of the size of the gap, CA glue is also a good filler.

My airbrush is usually cleaned with water, then concentrated screen wash and then a flush of IPA ( theres a company in lincoln that does 1ltr really cheap ) The IPA I use for a really good clean on a regular basis as well. I'll now be trying the 5ltrs of Muc off I have in my shed as well

Adrian

[Guest]

As has been said, filler becomes a matter of preference or convenience, I use Humbrols which I find dries too quickly for my liking meaning I have to squeeze out very small quantities and work it very very quickly, however it's the one filler I can get locally so if I need some relatively quickly I know it's a short walk to the toy/hobby shop.

I've heard great things about the Tamiya stuff and also mr surfacer 500 which appears to be more of a very thick primer, it's often used for zimmerit on tiger tanks etc.

As for cleaning, I keep the products simple, I use IPA (IsoPropylAlcohol), 90%, available from chemist/maplins/ebay for cleaning after acrylic, some acrylics get a flush through with a 6% ammonia and water solution first, (Fimo varnish and Citadel paints react with IPA and go 'claggy' (note technical term used there), so flush with ammonia then clean with IPA

Enamels get cleaned with hardware shop white spirit or turps / turp substitute

Alclads/cellulose/lacquers get cleaned with Halfords cellulose paint thinner

I generally use cellulose to wipe the needle regardless as it will shift anything, this occurred after I wiped a 'clean' needle which was dragging a bit and the amount of unseen pigment on there was frightening.

This video is my procedure for a clean after a spraying session, (note, this is a session, it could be one use or several changes if it's a prolonged spraying day), I flush through inbetween paints with the appropriate thinner till it blows clear before using a different one but before the brush goes back in it's storage box it get a thorough clean like this, some people might consider it excessive but it's a hangover from my garage days when I used to have to strip and clean a spraygun someone else had 'blown through' with gun wash and considered clean, clean it before it goes away, it comes out ready to go and working flawlwessly.

Though it's a thorough clean, once used to the routine you can strip clean, reassemble and test your brush in 15 - 20 min easily.

Having ultrasonically cleaned my brushes in a Muc Off bath I can confirm barely anything came out so it clearly works.

The only difference now to the procedure below is that I clean the emulsion tube with an interdental brush, (0.6mm seems just right) and wipe the needle in cellulose thinner.

[video=youtube;k9YnScCetDo]

[Guest]

Actually the Mr Surfacer 1000 & 1200 are more the consistency of primers. They are good for filling small scratches etc especially as they do not break away for small repairs as do a lot of other fillers.

The 500 is much thicker more between a thick primer & a conventional model filler.

Phil Flory does a tutorial where he uses Mr Surfacer 500 for fuselage joints etc. The technique I use but a little modified. Find his is perhaps a bit heavy handed for me.

Laurie

[Guest]

Thanks to m1ks. I came across your other movie some time ago. All very helpful.