T-cut on canopies

[Guest]

I read somewhere (in connection with using Eduard canopy masks — it might have been the seller of Eduard masks) that it is a good idea to use T-cut on the masked surfaces to make sure that they are clean and so make it easy for the masks to stick (which is obviously necessary, especially around the edges).

T-cut is a mild abrasive (although shines cars OK) and contains ">= 50 % Aliphatic hydrocarbons and up to 15% Anionic surfactants".

I rang the manufacturer and they advised against (not surprisingly), saying that it might turn the polstyrene milky.

I have just done a test and after polishing it off there no sign of milkyness yet

Is T-cut necessary? Would soap and water be sufficient to get good adhesion?

Thanks.

[Adrian "Marvel" Reynolds]

Steve, I've always used Bare Metal Foil for masking my canopies and apart from a quick wipe over I don't use anything, I'd really stay away from T-cut for the reasons you say.

Adrian

[yak face]

I dont know about the new formula T-cut steve , but the old stuff with its petroleum distillates would definitely attack the plastic , I wouldnt like to risk it with the new either . If it was me , I would just give them a good wash with soapy water and rinse , the masks should stick fine , cheers tony

[Ian M]

Soapy water, a good rinse and if you are into it a dip in Johnssonses Klear. Its about the only thing I use it for. Why? It does give a nice shine to the clear plastic and makes them appear thinner (!?). Also, should you have a minor painting issue, the klear, makes removing the boo-boo's easier.

Ian M

[rickoshea52]

Steve,I use T-cut to remove the factory tampo printed numbers and nameplates from ready to run model trains when I want to re-number them. You get a nice glossy finish ideal for applying decals but I wouldn't use it on clear plastic.

[Guest]

OK. I won't use it. At the recent Cosford model show I was given two identical pieces of advice on how to get a mirror finish on cars: after using Halford's car paint (spray can) use T-cut to buff it up, and again after applying a clear varnish (if varnish is necessary).

[Guest]

didn't realise you were at cosford mate, you should of come for a coffee with us all.

[stona]

Can you still get that smoker's toothpaste? It was a powder and I used to use it to polish minor flaws out of clear parts.

Generally I just give clear parts a quick soapy wash and then a wipe with alcohol before a dip in Klear.

Cheers

Steve

[Guest]

didn't realise you were at cosford mate, you should of come for a coffee with us all.

I didn't check the forum during the weekend and missed the appointment at 12 noon (under the vulcan wing as I remember). Pity.

[Guest]

Can you still get that smoker's toothpaste? It was a powder and I used to use it to polish minor flaws out of clear parts.

The powder was called Eucryl, and there was a liquid sort called Pearl-drops ... used both of these to buff out/tone down/thin and fade paintwork when i used to spray artwork on cars.

[Andy2035]

I use one of these to polish up my clear screens, it takes out all the scratches etc...: - Albion Alloys Abrasives Triple Grit Polisher/Finisher 3210

I start off with the course and finish with the super fine...: -

Before...

After...

http://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/triple-grit-polisher-finisher-albion-alloys-3210.html' rel="external nofollow">

[stona]

The powder was called Eucryl, and there was a liquid sort called Pearl-drops ... used both of these to buff out/tone down/thin and fade paintwork when i used to spray artwork on cars.

Eucryl,that's the stuff. Thanks for that. It worked really well,but I never brushed my teeth with it!

It still exists.

http://www.eucryl.co.uk/

Cheers

Steve