Beginner painting advice

[Guest]

I've just started painting this BSG model and wanted to know if this is normal? It's going on extremely thin and patchy and is collecting in the cracks. Do they normally just require a few thin coats to build the colour up? I might see if I can get a cheap airbrush

[ATTACH]67000.IPB[/ATTACH]

[takeslousyphotos]

I might stand corrected here (and probably will be) ........... But I'd say there is some grease or mould release residue on there......... I always give things a good wipe over with IPA and then soapy water before I paint anything........... I'm afraid I cant offer much of a solution other than cleaning it off and starting again........... If it's acrylic IPA should get it off or enamel some cellulose thinner.

............ But hold off until someone smarter than me gets back to you.

Cheers

Peter

[mossiepilot]

Just a question, did you thin the paint before using it because that looks really watery, if you did you may have overdone it a tad.

Tony.

[ojays]

I agree with Peter, it looks as if the paint is cissing/separating due to contamination on the surface.

What paints are you using, and did you use a primer first?

Gregg

[Guest]

I didn't use any thinner at all. It's a Revell 374, freshly opened just now. I gave it a good stir and used it straight from the tub. When I started I thought there must have been something wrong as it was so patchy.

[flyjoe180]

Revell 374 is an enamel paint described as 'Grey Silk'. I use Humbrol enamels, but the theory is the same. With enamels you have to stir them until all oil material in the tin is dissolved. This can take many minutes. Then shake it until your arm can no longer shake any longer, for a minimum of one minute. Then stir again and you should have a better consistency. To me that looks like the paint has either been applied onto a very greasy surface as indicated by others, and/or has happened to me, the enamel oil has not been properly dissolved into the mixture. As a general rule, I re-shake the tin every now and again and give it another stir to keep the consistency uniform. When painting with enamels I also use thinners to keep the brush clean and it helps to spread the paint, but do not use too much. Hope this helps, give it another go and let us know how you get on.

[Guest]

Have you tried painting another item, in exactly the same way but after washing that article thoroughly? If it goes on as normal, it seems to be contamination; if not, it must be the paint. If thinned too far, and if your item has a shiny surface, surface tension will cause the paint to gather into globules.

[Guest]

silly question but did you prime the kit? i use humbrol spray primer in a can.

Scott

[Guest]

I feel pretty silly now, I didn't prime it. I didn't realise that was vital. I've now bought a can of humbrol primer and gave it the first coat. I didn't mix the paint that thoroughly either so when I start again, I'll make sure I give it a lengthy stir and a shake. The colour of the primer looks pretty similar to the colour of the paint. Could I just prime it and leave it like that, or would that give a poor finish?

[Guest]

To be honest a can of halfords primer is perfect for spacey type models, it gives a nice matt "dusty dry" surface that takes weathering using oils very well.

To answer your first question it looks as though the paint enamel has separated from its carrier and has settled and formed a nice hardish block at the bottom of the tin. When I've ever mixed enamels (which is rare coz I'm an acrylic fan) I've used the wooden end of the brush and dug down into the bottom of the tin with a fair bit of force to break it up, basically you can think you're mixing the paint but you're just scraping the surface of the blob of paint solids at the bottom.

[takeslousyphotos]

I feel pretty silly now, I didn't prime it. I didn't realise that was vital. I've now bought a can of humbrol primer and gave it the first coat. I didn't mix the paint that thoroughly either so when I start again, I'll make sure I give it a lengthy stir and a shake. The colour of the primer looks pretty similar to the colour of the paint. Could I just prime it and leave it like that, or would that give a poor finish?

Never "silly" me old china.......... This is a big learning curve for all of us ........ If you have a question ask it.

........ and if someone know the answer it's because: a) they want to help ....... and ...... b) They probably, at some time in the past ask the same question or learnt it from experience.

Peter

[Guest]

Smulx (need your christian name really) a lot of model makers do not prime. But I am sur they prpare the work well ie washing & probably wet & dry all plasticsurfaces.

Before priming, which I bet most do, wash your plastic then I prepare after filling etc by wet & drying all surfaces with a say 1500 grit wet & dry paper. Then wipe down or wash to get rid of the residue from sanding.

I use only primer from the same stable as the paint I am going to use for the finished coats. A good primer will give a good stable finish on the plastic.

On the question of leaving the primer coat as the finish coat. Vallejo acrylic primers are quite smooth but I again give a light wet & dry to smooth & also get rid of any bits & pieces which may have formed during priming before applying the finish shing coats.

If you have filler in places the primer also assists as it obliterates the filler which will probably a different colour to the plastic. Primer also points out any parts which may need more attention in preparation ie joints & areas needing a bit more sanding or smoothing.

Laurie