Clear coating before Decals. Necessary?

[Guest]

Is it essential to clear coat before decals? I haven't typically in the past and I ran into an issue that has me wondering if I really should be. I was under the impression the reason for the clear coat was to provide a gloss finish so the decals would slide around. Since I'm applying decals over top of Tamiya Gloss black (TS-14) I figured it would be an unnecessary step.

I'm using Microset and Microsol to put the decals on, and Ihad no issues getting the decals put down. Since there were some complex curves I did have a couple of minor creases in the decal that I did my best to remove before they dried up. I then went to use Microsol on the decal to get rid of the ridges and when it dried up it left what look like water spots on the decal. However they are black. So I'm wondering if the Microset or Microsol reacted with the paint. I'm surprised by that as I've found that Tamiya's TS series paints are pretty tough and robust.

Seems I keep on running into things on this build!

[stona]

The trick is to have a gloss, that is smooth surface to apply the decals on to. Silvering (causing the decal film to become visible) is caused by air trapped under the decal and this is more likely with the almost microscopically uneven surface of a matt finish.

Don't use Tamiya paints so I can't comment on your second question.

Cheers

Steve

[flyjoe180]

I've occasionally used Tamiya TS paints with no issues. Did you leave it to dry thoroughly before applying solution over it?

[Guest]

Hi Steve. Definitely know of the silvering issue that you're talking about. Not having that issue on this model, I do remember seeing it in the past when I was a kid. Figured that was exactly why the gloss coat was required.

[Guest]

I've occasionally used Tamiya TS paints with no issues. Did you leave it to dry thoroughly before applying solution over it?

Hi Joe,

Yeah it was painted a couple of weeks ago. I'm wondering now if I washed that part (the hood) thoroughly enough after wet sanding and polishing. Maybe there was some fine debris still on the part from that process? The body was washed very carefully yesterday. So I'm going to try and put the decals down on that without a clear coat and see if I have the issue or not.... It's definitely smooth enough to not have the silvering issue that Steve referred to.

[flyjoe180]

Okay, yes try again and see how it goes. Could well have been a piece of debris that was missed, or an uneven spray area.

[Guest]

Finally at home and got my house reno chores done so I had some time to try and clean up the hood and was unsuccessful. Here's a pic to see what I'm talking about.

[ATTACH]69490.IPB[/ATTACH]


I realized that I had a brain fart in my earlier post. This was painted with Tamiya acrylic which is water soluble. I'm wondering if the microset/microsol is able to attack that finish even after being painted for a few days. So maybe clear coating over tamiya acrylic is necessary to stop this from happening. My recent experience with decals has been on an aircraft which I did clear coat first before decals, and another car which was painted with the TS series spray paint. So this car is a little different that the others I've used Microset/Microsol on. Since this really was a practice build I'm not too upset about it. I'm just glad that it wasn't on the Lotus that I have planned to build next...

[Guest]

Some google sleuthing has shown that other people have reported this kind of problem with Microsol on Tamiya acrylic paints. However it's typically when people have applied decals soon after painting. I likely last painted this around 2 weeks ago, wet sanded and polished with automotive clear coat scratch remover this weekend 4-5 hours before decals though... I don't think that was the culprit though. Anyways I'm convinced enough now that I'll clear coat the body and let it cure for a week or so before applying the rest of the decals. As for the hood.... well I guess the story for this car is that it was stolen from a junkier car that someone spilled oil on? o_O

[Ian M]

Could you not "peel them off" and paint the strips... Would look 100x better.

Ian M

[stona]

One of the advantages of a clear/Klear coat is that it will protect the paint.

I'm an enamel guy which means my paints just don't dry, they cure undergoing a chemical change, which makes them much more resistant to other reagents than some acrylics which simply dry, but are still easily soluble in the original solvent.

Again, I qualify this by saying I'm not familiar with Tamiya paints. Just because modellers refer to them as acrylics don't make it so

Cheers

Steve

[Guest]

An additional point is that the gloss varnish or Klear will allow the decal to be asily manouvered into position especially if you use the micro products.

Laurie

[Guest]

Could you not "peel them off" and paint the strips... Would look 100x better.Ian M

Ya probably a good idea in the end.... Like I said this was intended to be a practice model before I build this kit:

[ATTACH]69524.IPB[/ATTACH]


Wanted to make sure I had some more practice on some decals. I've only really built airplanes recently and all of their decals are pretty straight forward! Large flat surfaces. I find cars have lots of complex and compound curves....

I also have a Ferrari Ezno on the bench that I was going to put carbon fibre decals on. That ups the complexity as I have to make my own templates for cutting the decals, and they're going on very curved surfaces.

Arg! I see a lot of decal application in my immediate future!

[Ian M]

LOL yer, ok that's not the easiest to paint (or decal). I had the big 72(?) JPS lotus many years ago and can just about remember all those pinstripes... o.O

Ian M