Cockpit canopy painting

[Guest]

I know this has come up numerous times but I find this the most difficult. Just when I think I have it right it is not !

Masking is OK I burnish down & give a thin brush coat of matt varnish to stop creep. On this one I am going to try next time the New Humbrol Clear to see if that is thinner & better than the Vallejo matt varnish.

My real question is this. Paint does not stick well to the shiny clear plastic. Has any one evolved any idea of making the surface to be painted ? That is to etch the surface to provide a good stickable surface for the paintwork.

Laurie

[stona]

I can only tell you what I do Laurie.

After masking I paint the interior colour onto the outside of the canopy. I do not spray this but paint it with a brush. I use enamel paint and typically apply two thin coats with a 24 hour gap to get a nice even colour. I don't have any problem with the paint sticking to the clear plastic which will have been given a wipe with alcohol before dipping in Klear and being allowed to thoroughly dry and cure. This first colour will be visible from inside the canopy so that you see the interior colour as you'd expect. It also acts as an excellent primer for the final exterior colour which will be sprayed over it, along with the rest of the camouflage.

Cheers

Steve

[Guest]

Thanks Steve. One problem which I have suspected is that Acrylics do not have the stick-ability of Enamels. Acrylics in small areas tend to be a bit flaky.

Think I may next time try enamels just for the canopy. Decided on the last canopy, which was not good, that I would next time try hand brushing.

Very nice tip on interior colours as a first coat.

Laurie

[Guest]

One problem which I have suspected is that Acrylics do not have the stick-ability of Enamels. Acrylics in small areas tend to be a bit flaky

I've found this depends on the paint itself, even the ''expensive and made for the job'' modelers acrylics tend to be of a poorer quality than some cheap artists stuff.

I primarily use my remaining stock of citadel colours and I've had times where I had a job removing the paint from an 'unprepared' glossy clear plastic, the same bit of plastic has had revel colours literally falling off.(I'm sure they do this so people have to buy totally unneeded primer)

As far as canopies go, I intend to have a bash at another aircraft next year and I'll probably have to mask a canopy so I've come up with a cunning plan.

1.. Mask surface as per usual.

2.. Completely cover the inside with tape or blob some blue/white tac on it so there's no gaps.

3.. Drop it in my bird grit and give it a couple of shakes so the 'frame' area exposed gets roughed up.

Simple idea that just might work .... If anyone wants to try it (Laurie ) and report back ?

[Guest]

GritColin . Yes I had not thought of that. Will have a go & with Enamel. Wow this may be the turning point !

Thanks men some good ideas there.

Laurie

[Ian M]

Interesting to see how that works.

I have been experimenting with DIY decal frames. It is explained in my Sea Mosquito build. In short I used clear decal film, sprayed it with the interior colour. left it to cure, then sprayed the top colour. After a couple of days to dry, I cut 1- 1.5mm strips and used them like ordinary decals.... As to how well they last....? Look OK though.

Ian M

[Guest]

I'd try it myself but I have no aircraft, well that's my excuse

It works with normal plastic to ''texture'' it up a bit

[flyjoe180]

That's a brilliant idea Colin. I can't say I have had too many issues with enamels sticking to the clear plastic either, but always a few coats are required. I don't use Klear or any other varnish on my clear parts, I simply wash them in detergent and rub with alcohol later.

[Guest]

So I have tried the above ideas & the result is brilliant. I have ended on a test piece(on 1 of 7 replacements transparent sprues sent by Airfix) with clean thin delicate lines on the cockpit frame of a Merlin 1/48.

First I masked the interior of part of the cockpit (left some free to see the result of the grit procedure) to protect the interior from the git procedure as Colin instructed..

Second masked the external frame well burnished down. Found that a finger nail edge works the best. I did not wash the cockpit before as I thought any creep under the tape will be easier to clean up.

Then into the GritColin & shake for a minute. Did not use Klear at all.

Then cleaned the exposed frame lines with Isopropyl Alchohol. Actually think this may also make the edges of the tape sit down better on the adhesive. Then to make sure burnished the edges again.

Then use on one part Vallejo Model Air two coats the first thinnish 5 min. between coats second a full coat all with a handbrush. Also same procedure with Vallejo Model. Within 10 minutes when it looked dry I peeled away gently the tape & there was a perfect line on the Model Air not so good on the Model.

Not tried enamel as I do not have any. If Humbrol Clear proves a good bet I will coat the canopy to protect the Acrylic paint.

So thanks to all for the help & advice.

Laurie

I wonder if I can sell GritColin to Humbrol

[eddiesolo]

Yep, grit or fine sand in a food bag, once masked, both sides, drop into bag and shake.

Si

[Guest]

I've patented it Laurie.

[Guest]

I am then gritted.

[Guest]

Yep, grit or fine sand in a food bag, once masked, both sides, drop into bag and shake.Si

Use a coffee jar si, bags tend to rip and spread bird grit everywhere...

[eddiesolo]

Use a coffee jar si, bags tend to rip and spread bird grit everywhere...

Can't afford coffee in our house will a used teabag do?

Si