Thanks a lot for this thread Barry.Ive had a few disasters recently whilst trying to take my builds to the next level.But I am going to try your methods on my Whirlwind.
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Thank you very much Barry!
Your thread is simple to understand and excellent to learn.
The final result of your build is magnificent!
Thanks again for your effort and to share it with all us.
Regards
PoluxComment
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Super thread and great build Barry, cheers.Comment
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You make it all seem so simple
I am still on brush painting, does the pre-shading work for brushes too? I guess if I thin the paint down it works as well? I am now on a 1/72 B24 which is olive drab - that is going to be pretty dark and I recall in one of the magazines about using a yellow thinned layer underneath to lighten it up and lightening the olive with a drop or two of white as well?
Oh, one little tip I have found, and I feel embarrassed to even suggest such here, but most of the big supermarkets sell little plastic shot glasses, they are about £1 for 20 something like that, they make excellent mixing pots and once you're done can clean them out or throw them away.Comment
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I know great results can be obtained by a brush but, I suspect, different methods need to be used. With paint thinned to the same ratio when applied with a hairy brush it will always be thicker than an airbrush and thin layers are the secret to this method. Also there may be a problem with feathering the edges of the pre-shading, it might be too harsh if not done by airbrush. Perhaps experienced brush painters may be able to give a more definitive answer.Originally posted by \You make it all seem so simple I am still on brush painting, does the pre-shading work for brushes too? I guess if I thin the paint down it works as well? I am now on a 1/72 B24 which is olive drab - that is going to be pretty dark and I recall in one of the magazines about using a yellow thinned layer underneath to lighten it up and lightening the olive with a drop or two of white as well?
Oh, one little tip I have found, and I feel embarrassed to even suggest such here, but most of the big supermarkets sell little plastic shot glasses, they are about £1 for 20 something like that, they make excellent mixing pots and once you're done can clean them out or throw them away.Comment
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I think Barry's right. Certain things are simply not possible with the different techniques.
One advantage of brush painting, though, that I hardly ever see people mention, is that if you're thinning your paint on a palette, and even moreso if you're mixing your own shades, is that you can alter the hue as you're going by mixing more or less of different shades in, or just using slightly more and slightly less dilute paint to have higher or lower saturation of the colour you're working in.
I think I've got this right (but pls correct me if I'm off track): much of what is being attempted in pre-shading is, as far as I can tell, an attempt to avoid a perfectly even finish on the model as this just doesn't look realistic at scale. An even finish is what airbrushing is particularly good at - hence why the 1:1 scale originals are usually sprayed themselves! Working with a brush, the issue is often the reverse - trying for a more uniform finish (hence working with multiple thinned layers). If you don't try too hard at that, you can get some interesting textures on the final product. The big no-no is visible brush-strokes, though (so: again thinned paints, don't paint over still-tacky base coats etc).
Wish I had better photos of it, but here's a Hampden bomber I did, entirely brush-painted. Other aspects of the painting aren't so great (not happy with the masked edges of the canopies, and there's quite a 'step' between camo shades at points), but I'm pleased with the overall finish I achieved there. And it doesn't take an expert - this was my fifth model (as an adult!).Comment
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What a fantastic tutorial! Am about to build a Scorpion for a friend (first build for decades!), and I'll be re-reading this quite a bit. Thank you!Comment
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