Oil weathering

[Dave W]

A logical point: space ships wander the Universe, right? Its a vacuum there, no dirt etc. I doubt there are external hydraulics to leak oil. So why do people weather spacecraft?
Just wondering.

Surely there is dust and debris floating about in space?.What happens to all the bits when asteroids collide with planets and each other?.Or does that only happen in movies?!.The rings around Saturn are said to contain particles of rock (and ice) ranging in size from less than 1cm up to a metre.There must be more floating about the universe surely?.

[Ian M]

Well there is an awful amount of 'debris' out there. much of it man made, if you know what I mean.... o.O NASA started to bring it home ISS burn it and release the ash into space...Or so I have read.


Dirt muck and grime... probably. the one I get lost on it those big fire ball explosions....remember the fire triangle. Fuel+air+heat= fire. remove any one and the fire can not exist.


Ian M

[Guest]

The falcon passes though planetary atmospheres a lot so it can get away with those oil stains. It also gets shot at a lot and was in the belly of a space worm of sorts! Also the director specified all the equipment for the films looked well worn and run down/ repaired.......

I'm glad that I am not the only one to invent complex histories for a model. My Rolls Royce Phantom II 1934 was owned by an old lady and driven by her chauffeur to deliver calf's foot jelly and warm muffs to her estate tenants at Christmas. In the Summer she would be driven on picnics with a friend, hence the basket in the boot, and also.... (It could go on.)

[Guest]

Dirt is just particles of matter & there's plenty of that in space, including dust. Oil spills (or other fluid) would float as globules to be deposited on any passing object.
And haven't you heard of Solar Wind Laurie?!

Well I am not an expert on this stuff Patrick. But what I have read is that there are particles around mostly cosmic dust. But not dirt or oil as we know it on earth except for that very very minute amount (measured against the size of the universe) which has been left in space by human activity.


Solar winds are not the winds we have on earth or within the boundaries of other planets. They are also according to experts almost impossible to measure. These Solar winds (from what I have read) will not buffet a person in space they are not going to wrinkle your hair. I suppose if they did then human space ships and humans out on a mission from the space vehicle would be blown to smitherines. Seems that calling them winds was an unfortunate way to title them.


This is what the BBC experts say. Very interesting as these so called Solar Winds, which are electrons and protons, can destroy planets by denuding the magnetism surrounding the planet..


The solar wind is a stream of plasma released from the upper atmosphere of the Sun. It consists of mostly electrons and protons with energies usually between 1.5 and 10 keV. The stream of particles varies in density, temperature, and speed over time and over solar longitude. These particles can escape the Sun's gravity because of their high energy, from the high temperature of the corona and magnetic, electrical and electromagnetic phenomena in it.


The solar wind flows outward supersonically to great distances, filling a region known as the heliosphere, an enormous bubble-like volume surrounded by the interstellar medium. Other related phenomena include the aurora (northern and southern lights), the plasma tails of comets that always point away from the Sun, and geomagnetic storms that can change the direction of magnetic field lines and create strong currents in power grids on Earth.


Laurie

[Alan 45]

To put an end to this little debate I found a couple of sites that explain it better


http://herschel.cf.ac.uk/science/infrared/dust


In this one read the bottom paragraph


http://www.armaghplanet.com/blog/the-dangers-of-space-travel.html


I hope this settles the debate

[eddiesolo]

Sci-fi = laser blasts, grime and muck.


Real life = shiny and clean.


Si

[Alan 45]

Sci-fi = laser blasts, grime and muck.
Real life = shiny and clean.


Si

See post above

[eddiesolo]

No...shiny...SHINY!


Si

[Alan 45]

No...shiny...SHINY!
Si

Is your avatar a reminder mate lol

[eddiesolo]

Is your avatar a reminder mate lol

LOL, no. I have been sorting out my files and just popped it up. In fact I had forgotten all about them. Keep em if you want, got some other stuff on at the moment.


Si

[Alan 45]

LOL, no. I have been sorting out my files and just popped it up. In fact I had forgotten all about them. Keep em if you want, got some other stuff on at the moment.
Si

You see what happened was Christmas, he came along and mate me all ill and then ran off with my mojo , the British are finished but the yanks are in different types of development

[Guest]

[quote="Alan 45, post: 255861,


I hope this settles the debate


Nothing wrong with a debate Alan. No body has ruffled any bodies feathers here.


The main thing is that I am sure that we have all learnt a lot more than we knew before. I certainly enjoyed finding out a lot more about space plus it has given me an appetite to read and learn a lot more.


Keep this space (ha ha) open.


Laurie

[Guest]

Looks great Alan did you make you own oil wash as I've considered making some myself and was wondering what ratios to use.

I too have been messing around with oils - well, I do have a box full of assorted paints, it'd seem churlish not to - and it's surprisingly easy! As a rough guide, the thin washes I've made are around 8-10ml thinner (white spirit, in my case) and add to that about 5-7 mm sausage of paint straight from the tube and mix up. Mixing is a pain, and does take some determination, and I'd suggest a cheap 10 mm filbert artists brush for this job. Once mixed, the wash will separate, so keep storing it as you use it (am guessing that this might be what you pay for when you buy ready-mixed AK interactive stuff, wash that doesn't separate!). The great thing about oils is that they won't dry for a while, and even when they do, you can still adjust stuff with a stiff brush, or Q tip dipped in thinner. The above "recipe" is thin, and you can experiment with ratios, but 3 or 4 thin washes will always look much better than one thicker one, to do with the brush strokes etc, but it gives a wonderful organic surface. Below is my Tamiya Churchill Mk. Vll (very much work in progress) which I am experimenting with, having found the acrylic washes a little less than ideal for my liking. I must admit, that for getting a worn, used looking surface, I don't think I'll be looking elsewhere. Advise 1 tube Raw Umber, 1 Yellow Ochre, 1 Payne's Grey (a really useful darkener, without resorting to black, it is much more transparent than black, therefore eminently useful for this), and If you build lots of green things, a tube of Viridian. With these few tubes, you can make many subtly different washes, and they really fly into recesses and raised details, much, much slicker than the acrylic ones. I bought these to mix in, which are an amazing bargain! The bottom line is how satisfying it is to make your own at a fraction of the cost, over time!


[ATTACH]100462.IPB[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]100463.IPB[/ATTACH]



Give it a whirl!


Cheers


John

[john i am]

I too have been messing around with oils - well, I do have a box full of assorted paints, it'd seem churlish not to - and it's surprisingly easy! As a rough guide, the thin washes I've made are around 8-10ml thinner (white spirit, in my case) and add to that about 5-7 mm sausage of paint straight from the tube and mix up. Mixing is a pain, and does take some determination, and I'd suggest a cheap 10 mm filbert artists brush for this job. Once mixed, the wash will separate, so keep storing it as you use it (am guessing that this might be what you pay for when you buy ready-mixed AK interactive stuff, wash that doesn't separate!). The great thing about oils is that they won't dry for a while, and even when they do, you can still adjust stuff with a stiff brush, or Q tip dipped in thinner. The above "recipe" is thin, and you can experiment with ratios, but 3 or 4 thin washes will always look much better than one thicker one, to do with the brush strokes etc, but it gives a wonderful organic surface. Below is my Tamiya Churchill Mk. Vll (very much work in progress) which I am experimenting with, having found the acrylic washes a little less than ideal for my liking. I must admit, that for getting a worn, used looking surface, I don't think I'll be looking elsewhere. Advise 1 tube Raw Umber, 1 Yellow Ochre, 1 Payne's Grey (a really useful darkener, without resorting to black, it is much more transparent than black, therefore eminently useful for this), and If you build lots of green things, a tube of Viridian. With these few tubes, you can make many subtly different washes, and they really fly into recesses and raised details, much, much slicker than the acrylic ones. I bought these to mix in, which are an amazing bargain! The bottom line is how satisfying it is to make your own at a fraction of the cost, over time!
[ATTACH]102223[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]102224[/ATTACH]


Give it a whirl!


Cheers


John

Cheers John I will have a bash at mixing some oils and see how they turn out yours look good on the Churchill

[eddiesolo]

My Large Falcon surface is all oils. Acrylic grey for the inserts with a black oil wash then acrylic aluminium.


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