Weathering failure

[hubbycat]

I am having problems with weathering my models (tanks). In the past I only painted my models and never attempted any weathering effects. But now since I have more time I'm happy to experiment and see what happens. The problem is that my first attempts have been a total failures. I used Vallejo washes and tried them on my two tanks, Churchil and Cromwell, and I can't see any effects. To put it simply I can't see any difference between before and after. I have watch many YT videos on how to apply weathering and I tired to do the same but to no avail, my tanks are stubbornly remain green. The YT videos make it so easy just few drops of wash and the difference is immediate. But when I try to replicate it I get nothing. I wonder if someone could recommend a good tutorial or may be a YT video (that I haven't see yet) that could help. I considering changing to AMMO enamel washes. I use Tamiya acrylic paints and I don't think they are the problem.

Thanks Tom

[PaulTRose]

Personally im not a fan of premade washes........i prefer using enamel thinned with white spirit.......or using oils with suitable thinners but that takes ages to dry which is ok if you aint in a hurry

[pjgtech]

I use a few pre made washes (mostly Vallejo) and I find you have to give them a good shake before using, as they can settle a bit. Also are you putting a gloss coat on (and letting it dry) before applying the washes? as IMHO this makes the washes "flow" better.
I've also used oil paint, thinned with oil thinners, but as above, it can then take few days to dry fully, but this also means you get lots of time to get it just how you want it, so....
Cheers

[Valeron]

I use Vallejo washes and find that lots and lots of thin coats, building up the effect works. Each coat drys quickly. And vary the application of coat so the whole effect is not monotone.

[stillp]

I like the Flory water-based washes. I've tried the Humbrol washes and always been disappointed.
Pete

[Jim R]

Like Paul I don't particularly like premade washes etc. I have never got on with premade acrylic, water based products. Also like Paul I use oils with Sansoder or artists white spirit. The big disadvantage is the slow drying time but that can be speeded up with careful use of a hair dryer. The advantage is that the washes can be made to various dilutions and the effect can be tweaked with a brush dampened with thinner. I also use pigments and VMS fixer.
Have a look at Steve Jones scale modelling on YouTube.

[minitnkr]

The gloss coat helps to break the surface tension of the wash allowing a more pigment rich application.

[hubbycat]

Have a look at Steve Jones scale modelling on YouTube.

thanks I will take a look.
Tom

[hubbycat]

I use a few pre made washes (mostly Vallejo) and I find you have to give them a good shake before using, as they can settle a bit. Also are you putting a gloss coat on (and letting it dry) before applying the washes? as IMHO this makes the washes "flow" better.
I've also used oil paint, thinned with oil thinners, but as above, it can then take few days to dry fully, but this also means you get lots of time to get it just how you want it, so....
Cheers

yes I do use gloss coat, tamiya x22, something that I saw in some YT videos. I give it a good shake before use.
Tom

[flyjoe180]

Tom, I regularly use both Vallejo acrylic washes and Ammo enamel washes. Both are applied over a gloss surface.

For acrylic painted models I use the enamel washes. They are much easier to use and manipulate than their acrylic counterparts.As Paul said, it is pretty easy to make your own custom enamel washes to your own taste.

For enamel painted models I use the Vallejo acrylic washes. They are not so easy to obtain a dense effect with, requiring constant shaking in the bottle and stirring. The pigments dissipate very quickly. One solution to getting a more obvious effect is to use a satin varnish, to which your pigment will adhere more easily. The flatter your varnish goes, the easier it will stick, but it will stain if you make any errors. Also, when removing excess wash, use a moist (not wet) cotton bud or piece of paper towel. If you go too wet you will dilute the wash, if you go too dry your bud or towel will soak the wash out of the recessed lines.

Hope this helps you a bit.

[hubbycat]

From what you are saying I take it that since I used acrylic paints I should use enamel washes. Though I'm not sure what type of wash I have. it just says Wash FX on the bottle. Reading your comment I think that I might have simply cleared th wash away since I was using dry cotton bud. And I will try to shake better as well.

Thanks - Tom

[LeytonO]

I have started using ABT 502 Oils and odourless thinner to make up washes, so far so good.
Mix up to a watery solution and apply where required, leave for an hour or so to take off any excess.
I have used cotton swabs and small wedge shape make up sponges for the removal process.
Appears to be dry after about a day, I applied them onto a gloss surface over an acrylic base coat.
This was the set I bought to get started https://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/veh...2-abt302-p117/
with the thinners https://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/100...02-abt111-p62/
Tubes of Oil will last ages, thinners are not so economical though, but nice they don't stink.

[hubbycat]

Thanks, I intend to experiment more so I will try your suggestions.

Tom

[Tim Marlow]

Vallejo make two types of wash. Which are you using Tom? Game colour wash is designed for figure painting, and doesn’t work so well on larger models. The one you want is Model colour wash, which has a higher pigmentation, to achieve the results you are after. There are details on the Vallejo web site.

Lots of info here…

https://acrylicosvallejo.com/en/step-by-step/

Model wash in particular here…

https://acrylicosvallejo.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/vallejo-stepbystep-model-wash-basic-use-guide-EN.pdf

You can also make your own washes using model color paint, diluted with water and flow aid, though this works best with darker colours.

[hubbycat]

I used two Vallejo washes. On one bottle says Wash FX For green vehicles and other Wash FX Forgery and dark vehicles. I take a look at the the links that you provided. Thanks

[wasdale32]

Tom

you don't say exactly what effect you're trying to achieve with your washes. I've found that there are basically two different approaches:-

(1) "filters" which are applied over large areas of the model and are intended to simulate faded or stained paintwork. They usually have a fairly subtle shade change and on darker
surfaces can disappear completely.

(2) "pin washes" which are intended to accentuate/exaggerate individual features such as bolt-heads/hatch surrounds/wheel rims. They are usually a distinctly different shade
to the base model (black on dark green/brown on sand/grey-blue on white). They can be very effective at outlining specific panels etc but if overused they can give the model
a very cartoonish look.

with any weathering exercise the important things to remember are "context" and "add a little at a time". In other words make sure that the weathering appropriate to the way the model is to be displayed - a vehicle just arrived in theatre will look much different to one that has been in a harsh environment for weeks - if you're not using a scenic base then a heavily weathered vehicle looks a bit odd. Also you can always add more weathering if you're not happy but its not easy to remove it if you've added too much...

But the golden rule always applies - "If you're building for your own pleasure whatever makes you happy is right!"

Mark

[hubbycat]

I was trying to achieve pin wash effects. I watched the YT video of Churchill tank build and the guy just said that he used pin wash as he applied drops of wash around all the hatches and lines. The effect was immediate . I wasn't aware that there were multiple types of washes. Looks like I need to dig deeper into it.
You are right I'm doing it for my own pleasure but I'd like step up a bit in my skill level.

Tom

[wasdale32]

Tom

Pin washes can be difficult to get right when you're starting out. The consistency of the paint being used for the wash is really critical - if it's too thick it will just "blob" onto the surface, if it's too thin it will probably flow into areas you don't want and also the pigment will be uneven. If you're practicing on a trash kit or "mule" I would suggest trying a contrasting colour to the base colour until you get the hang of it as you'll be able to see where the wash is going more easily. Often dust will accumulate around bolt heads and in recessed so a dusty coloured pin wash wouldn't be unusual .

[hubbycat]

Thanks I’ll give another try.
Tom

[Tim Marlow]

Those Vallejo washes you have are ideal for pin washing. That looks exactly like model color wash with a new name. I would try again, but make sure the bottle is very well mixed first. It is a failure of Vallejo paint that it separates very easily and needs thorough mixing to give of its best. I have the dark grey and find it works exactly as described. You do need to put it on quite heavily though, but practice on an unobtrusive area first.

[hubbycat]

I’m planning to spent more time experimenting so I will see if I can improve.
Tom