NEED ADVICE.

[eddiesolo]

Hi guys, I have added this to weathering as although it isn't paint or pigment related it is part of the process.


I am wanting to do another sunken sub model, however I am wanting to do some rust holes-in the past I have scraped and sanded and it has worked but was a lot of hard work and not 100%.


I am struggling with my hands so this kind of work is just too much now. I want to know if it can be done chemically in a controlled way, so a spot of stuff here will thin and burn though. 


Any ideas as I am stuck in what to use. Was thinking of strong bleach in areas and just leaving it and see if it broke the polymer links in the plastic down.


Ta for any input.


Si

[Guest]

Hi Si, this is a little bit out of my depth but i think i am right when i say bleach wont melt the plastic, i use strong bleach to remove chrome from plastic part's & it has never had any effect on the plastic.


Have you tried using a Dremmil with qa sanding bit in it.


John 

[eddiesolo]

Hi Si, this is a little bit out of my depth but i think i am right when i say bleach wont melt the plastic, i use strong bleach to remove chrome from plastic part's & it has never had any effect on the plastic.


Have you tried using a Dremmil with qa sanding bit in it.


John 

Yeah I have used a Dremil in the past but I cramp and drop the thing lol. I doubted the bleach would work but something that is liquid and easy and controllable is my thinking.


Thanks though for heads up John.

[colin m]

Cellulose thinners will melt plastic, strong enough to do what you want, I don't know. It might weaken the plastic enough for you to push something through to make a hole.

[Guest]

Hi si I use cellulose to give the creaping you get on rust, I put it on top of the enamel paint ( only works with enamel paints) let it run along the joints and it blisters the enamel, if you used more it will melt the plastic as well, also if you shave plastic into it and stir it as you do so it makes a good filler too, although judging when you have enough and not too much plastic in it is a bit hit and miss ( too much and it sets before you've finished working it, and too little and it will melt the gap you're trying to fill.

[Ian M]

If you want rusted out holes the only effective way is to scrape the plastic though. Have you tried one of the metal bur type tools in the dremmel. A lot quicker than sanding and you might manage to do it easier before your hands cramp up.
I would say any chemical method is just going to melt a hole and not be very controllable. 

[Guest]

Si


How about heating a large nail or maybe a solfering iron. This would melt a hole through, you could also add texture to the melted plastic by stabbingvat it with the very tip or point of the hot iron/nail. Cheers Alan

[PaulTRose]

 I want to know if it can be done chemically in a controlled way, so a spot of stuff here will thin and burn though. 

sounds like you need some alien blood.............just make sure you have Ellen Ripley close by...................and no going peering in funny looking eggs!!

[monica]

this what I tend to do is use a headed up blade,and cut around,were you wont the hole,them


trim it back ,and use some kitchen foil,around the edgers

[Guest]

I reckon a combination of the suggested ideas would be your best bet Si.


Use a Dremel type tool to thin the plastic & then add tiny droplets of cellulose thinner. That will burn through just like acid, leaving small melted holes.


You can gradually add more tiny droplets until you've got the effect that you're looking for.

[eddiesolo]

Thanks guys, I am shying away from the melting-used this before but wanted a more natural look. 


Will have a play about, thanks again for the info.


Si 

[Ian M]

The thick alu foil from Chinese take away containers makes great "panels"

[Guest]

I have never tried this but have read that Humbrol or Revell cement glue will burn holes through the plastic.