Pigment fixer dissolving my model?

[Steve Jones]

I use the Mike Rinaldi method of weathering. This allows you to fully weather and layer a model in days rather than weeks. His videos and books are all over the internet if you want to learn more.

[JR]

Morning you two :smiling3:
Wow, that's devotion for you Andy. I bet your building your models with the same mind set as you have at work. I have times when I can't wait to model and want every thing done at once, as in the case of oil washes. This is the most frustrating part waiting for the oil wash to dry.
Steve's suggestion of looking up the guy he mentions is one I'm going to do. I've even even started to use those oil brushers, now they have speeded up the weathering.
Time for coffee

[rtfoe]

Hi Andy, I have used a medium called Liquin to my oil paints so that it dries faster within hours but the draw back is too much and your paint gets transparent and there is likelyhood of cracking. So far I haven't experienced cracking as I coat my paint work with varnish. I still have a bottle of it since I've changed to acrylics for figures and watercolor for my washes.

Can't remember if my Liquin is from Rembrandt or Windsor & Newton.

Also another method is to squeeze oil paint onto paper towels or box card to let the oils soak out.

Cheers,
Richard

[JR]

Just watched the guy Steve mentioned........ Mike Rinaldi so going to post the videos on painting chat

[Guest]

Thanks for the replies chaps, I think I was rambling a bit and not making great sense. That's posting at past midnight for you. Desperate to get to sleep, knowing my alarm would be sounding at 04:30!

I've watched that whole series of Hornet Hobbies / Rinaldi videos a few times. It's where I cottoned on to putting my oils on cardboard to leach out the linseed oil. That's helped with drying times, as has using Oilbrushers, but my problem remains that when moving to another stage involving oils, any clean up work involving thinners will rectivate the previous oil work stripping it off.

So, for example, if I put on a filter with oils, if I then use oils for a wash, any necessary clean up will strip the filter. It's how I ruined part of my T-28 and have had to fudge others. I think Rinaldi and people like Martin Kovac ( Night Shift on YT) get around this by alternating layers of acrylic and oil/enamel products, so that one doesn't affect the other. That's more investment I'd rather avoid if I can.

Maybe I should go back to aircraft as they need comparatively very little weathering :smiling5:

[scottie3158]

Andy,
As some of the others have said use a gloss coat, others say that's not necessary. Personally I use Klear to seal the surface and leave it over night, I then brush on a thin layer of Tamyia X20 thinners and add the pigments. To build the pigments up if you want more depth is to tap the pigments off the tip of a brush then using a long bristle thin brush gently wick the thinners into the pigment and allow to dry that way you can maintain a textured finish. when this has dried out mist over the matt coat of your choice. There are of course many well tried and tested methods but this works for me. HTH.
Scottie

[Guest]

Brilliant Paul, thanks. The more methods I can try the more likely I am to find one I can get to work for me lol.

With my little Russian tractor I ended up dabbing on a pigment/odourless thinner mix, then flicking some dry pigment over the top. I was pretty happy with it until I added a coat of gloss varnish to make it look wet. That kind of buried the pigment effect, but at least it looked decent for a while :smiling5:

[BattleshipBob]

Tad late, i use ak odour less no problems but do not smoke after a quick swig :upside: