FADING PAINTWORK.

[eddiesolo]

Hi guys need your help.

I have a 1/12 Honda Roadpal scooter that I am wanting to do as a battered garden relic.

This is going to be weathered, rusty in places but this is the question:

I want to fade the paintwork to make it looked sun-bleached, the tops near the seat etc will be the original colour but the frame lengths will be faded. So is it a case of spraying one colour and then doing something to the paintwork or, do I spray the original colour and then over-spray in a lighter tone?

Any thoughts, ideas etc appreciated.

Si

[Guest]

Hi Si.

The best option, for me, is over spray in a lighter colour.

I always thing, one secret of the modelling is paint "wrong" search a good base color (better light one, if there isn't chipping effect), then do a subtle preshade with a dark one....

Now is the time of the "original" colour. For exemple, if you choice a red or green one it's easier than others paint a very fine coat (sometimes I add 3 or 4 drops of distilled water) you need a transparent coat. You choice where you want more colour and less. If you have painted in red or green, the sun-bleached effect must be made with a yellow colour (like kaqui one). Here, the secret is your skill on the airbrush, paint slow and with care (more air,less paint)... and remember, do it "wrong"... O_o don't try to cover all (only a Car out of factory has a gloss and uniform coat of colour ), a nice result is a subtle result

Depends of your finally work, you can made your own filter or add some streaks grimes.

Hope this help and you understand my text

Polux

[monica]

hi Si, i think the way Polux said should work out fine,going 2 or even 4 shades of rust to a main color that is weathered ,

then to a half sun bleach which a color change to it, then almost white ,what ever the color was , as if you touch some

think like that it rubs off on your finger tips

will lov to see how it dose turn out and plz post pics off your steps this is a very interesting one

[eddiesolo]

Thanks guys, great tips, appreciate the time and comments left.

Si

[Guest]

Hi Si apply the base colour once dry add a little white to the base colour and re sray the centre of the panels only, once dry add your washes and weathering effects to suit.

scott

[Guest]

The easiset way i have found to do a rusty effect is using humbrol weathering powders dark earth, iron oxide and rust, the other products you will need is humbrol matt cote and humbrol thinner.

first mix the matt coat and thinner together so you get a milky consistancy, and apply to the areas you want rusted, then using a round brush add random amounts of powders so thatyou don't get too much of the one colour dominating the area, once dry the matt coat will fix it in place. If you are applyin paint over it do it so that the paint layers are translucent and it takes two coats for coverage, to get the rust to show through moisten a brush with thinner and go over the areas you want rust bleaching through the paint work.

scott

[Guest]

Have you heard of the hair spray trick? Or is it not the right technique?

John

[eddiesolo]

Have you heard of the hair spray trick? Or is it not the right technique?John

Different tip John, the hair-spray technique is for chipping.

Si

[Guest]

Si,

My chosen method would be to initially lighten the paint with a thin overspray using a lighter shade & then use oils to further add different tones.

Putting dots of raw paint on the area & then 'jabbing' at them with a stiff brush causes the paint to spread out into a very thin, even coat that's translucent.

It's an easily controlled method & allows for individual sections to be changed.

I do rust the same way, but jab the paint less to leave some texture which looks like actual rust - depending on the level of neglect, I'd mix up a dark purple for old rust or a combination of burnt Sienna & burnt umber for fresher rust.

Cheers

Patrick

[eddiesolo]

Hi Si apply the base colour once dry add a little white to the base colour and re sray the centre of the panels only, once dry add your washes and weathering effects to suit.scott

Thanks Scott, bit late in replying, sorry about that.

Si

[eddiesolo]

Si,My chosen method would be to initially lighten the paint with a thin overspray using a lighter shade & then use oils to further add different tones.

Putting dots of raw paint on the area & then 'jabbing' at them with a stiff brush causes the paint to spread out into a very thin, even coat that's translucent.

It's an easily controlled method & allows for individual sections to be changed.

I do rust the same way, but jab the paint less to leave some texture which looks like actual rust - depending on the level of neglect, I'd mix up a dark purple for old rust or a combination of burnt Sienna & burnt umber for fresher rust.

Cheers

Patrick

Interesting techniques Patrick, many thanks for taking the time, appreciate that.

Si

[yak face]

As has been said Si , spray the colour then lighten it a touch and gently mist over . The thing to remember is to spray it from above , think of how the suns rays would be hitting the bike , then the original colour should be stronger on the undersides of the frame - the parts that would naturally be in the shade most of the time. hope this helps cheers tony

[stona]

Not just lightening the colour either. I use a thinned grey to simulate fading as well.

Cheers

Steve

[eddiesolo]

As has been said Si , spray the colour then lighten it a touch and gently mist over . The thing to remember is to spray it from above , think of how the suns rays would be hitting the bike , then the original colour should be stronger on the undersides of the frame - the parts that would naturally be in the shade most of the time. hope this helps cheers tony

Ta Tony, good tip there, forgot about shadowing etc and non-fading of parts, thanks for that.

Si

[eddiesolo]

Not just lightening the colour either. I use a thinned grey to simulate fading as well.Cheers

Steve

Another great tip, thank you Steve, appreciate it.

Si