Restoration information.

[Guest]

Hello,

I am in possession of a model County Class engine. It was built by my father in the early eighties. My father has long since departed so I have no one to advise of the following:

I would like to get the engine restored paintwise. My father used the standard approach of two layers of undercoat and an oil based paint of the type used for painting plastic kits.

http://www.beaumont-thomas.com/private/countySomerset/

The paint has dulled over the years and is ingrained with dust.

I guess the first step is to get it cleaned, but I'm reluctant to try anything until I have some idea on what to be aware of - aside from damaging the paint work. How should I approach this?

Lastly, my father used transfers on this engine - his eyesight wasn't good enough to sign paint. The glue on these transfers has discoloured. What is the best way to remove them?

In anticipation,

Eddie

[Guest]

Hi Eddie, welcome.

What a grand loco you have there.

Brake fluid, Dot3 preferred over Dot4, would remove the paint, it works well on plastic and is not too severe. It is also easy to neutralize by washing thoroughly with water.

Check out a bottle at the retailer though as i don't know how it reacts to various metals; steel and brass should be ok but copper/zinc?

Hopefully one of the engineering modelers will be along to help out.

J.

[Guest]

Thanks for your reply jankers. I should add that the main components of the engine are made of balsa and ply woods.

[Guest]

Eddie is your intention to remove the paint or simply to clean it? Brake fluid will remove it but will also soak into any bare wood and upset the surface of any subsequent painting.

I would try cleaning it first with a damp cloth, bearing in mind that the water will soak into any bare wood as well. If that doesn't work turpentine substitute will be worth trying. If it is a good enamel it shouldn't disturb the paint anyway.

If they fail I would be tempted to very gently clean and prepare the surface with a very fine wet and dry paper and then apply a new top coat of modelling enamel paint.

[Guest]

Bunkerbarge, my intention is to clean the engine up with a repaint being a last resort. Thank you for your advice. The project starts in ernest this week-end. I'll keep the forum posted and hopefully show off some pictures of a "new" County of Somerset in the near future.

Eddie

[Guest]

I think to be honest the age of this model dictates that it would not look right if it was pristine. The slightly yellowing decals and the less than perfect finish are all part of what those in the antiques business call the patina and I would be tempted to do nothing more than a good clean.

I would try a couple of differrent possibilities carefully first to ensure compatibility with the paint but then I would do nothing more than use babies cotton buds soaked in a solvent and wipe the surface of the paint. I would try turps or even diesel oil, in small out of the way areas to ensure it doesn't lift the paint and very carefull rub away the dirt with the cotton swabs. Keep looking at the swab and if it starts to look green then you know you are lifting the paint.

Then maybe even a bit of wax polish on some of the more prominent areas such as the boiler and the cab to protect the paint and enhance the finish.

A final wipe with a lint free cloth should see this beauty looking her best.

[Guest]

I think i'd second bunkers advice on just giving the loco a careful clean and leave the decals in place. It's easy to over restore something and then it'll look just like it was made yesterday!

One the loco is cleaned I'd build a glass case for it to keep it in that just cleaned condition for a good while to come.

[Guest]

Suggestions and concerns noted and appreciated gentlemen. It was always my intention to retain as much of my fathers hand as possible. Your advice will enable me to achieve this. Many thanks.

[Guest]

One part of the model that could do with some work is the plinth it's standing on? Have you thought about a nice hardwood plinth? Get a nice little brass plate engraved, just to set off the model? Or maybe if I'm feeling nice I could do one for you on my cnc engraver?

[Guest]

Hi Alan,

I confess, apart from a lttle research into glass/acryllic casing, I hadn't got that far in the thought process but I do see your point. Do you perceive that the model would stand on a plinth minus the track?

And thanks for the engraving thought.

[Guest]

I would put the piece of track on a plinth. It sets the model off very nicely. I will find you the info for a case maker in Liverpool that I used a couple of years ago.

[Guest]

Not sure about these "Thank you" buttons Bunkerbarge. So here's the affirmative thanks. Agree with retaining the track, but without the layed down stone/gravel me thinks.

[Guest]

This is a link to the site that sells model cases. The Bismarck is mine!

I bought the case unfinished so I could wax it to my own taste. The guy who runs this outfit is very accomodating and friendly and will make a case to your exact dimensions. The Bismarck one cost about 90.00 pounds.

http://www.cabinets.col-uk.com/Photos4.htm

[Guest]

I will certainly touch base with this company when the time comes. Thanks Bunkerbarge. The Bismarck brings back some old modelling memories. Very nice indeed.

[Guest]

Keep the track but loose the ballast I think would be best. I remember seeing some model enginners 3 1/2" gauge loco model when I was little - the loco was set off on a beautifully detailed section of track with polished brass shoes and individual nuts and bolts on the fish plates. The sleepers where a dark wood and the plinth was a nicely satin varnished piece of close grained beech with an ogee profile on the edge. It really did set off the loco very nicely.