Trumpeter 1/35 Baureihe 52 mit Steifrahmentender

[Tim Marlow]

More great work Jack. Brass is a bit of a pig to solder as it transmits heat so readily so soldering those steps must have been fun. Did you use the old trick of wrapping the earlier joints in damp tissue so that only the new joint you were trying to make got hot enough to melt solder?

[JR]

Looking really good Jack.
PE :thumb2::thumb2::thumb2: and the copper threaded out like that !
Love the variation on the coal unit,very nice. You should be pleased.

[Jack L]

More great work Jack. Brass is a bit of a pig to solder as it transmits heat so readily so soldering those steps must have been fun. Did you use the old trick of wrapping the earlier joints in damp tissue so that only the new joint you were trying to make got hot enough to melt solder?

Thank you Tim, yeah had a few bits set in to have another part ping out. Ah no, will remember that one for next time. I just had multiple metal clamps a) holding it in place and b) trying to take some heat before conduction all the way down.

Looking really good Jack.
PE :thumb2::thumb2::thumb2: and the copper threaded out like that !
Love the variation on the coal unit,very nice. You should be pleased.

Thanks very much John, yeah I'm really pleased so far.

I think, I'm ready to prime and paint. Like ai said, there are so many hard to reach places, this is going to be a very tricky paint and attach process.

[adt70hk]

Quite simply amazing.

Andrew

[Steve Jones]

Ditto. Great to see

[Mini Me]

Hi Jack, This will look the bomb when you get the German Gray on her.....will you paint the running gear the same or will it be black, possibly red? Rick H.

[Tim Marlow]

If it’s wartime she’ll be dark grey and filth…….mostly filth! Some of the lower filth may have a red tinge to it….but still!

[Mini Me]

I was thinking.... builder's photo, sorry Tim.:smiling4: Rick H.

[Jack L]

Thank you, Andrew, Steve, Rick and Tim. Very kind.
Yes she will be all over grey. I think in reality the 'Chassis' (??? Is that what it is on a train???) should be red, regardless of the boiler/cab colour. Hard to tell from the wartime black and whites available, but most of the wrecks around are red. But I didn't like the look...so all over gray, and as Tim said weathered to oblivion.

I am starting to think I took the build too far before applying the paint. There are some really difficult to reach areas. Definitely won't be displaying it on a mirror!

[Jim R]

Hi Jack
Soldering is difficult when you have a few joints very close to each other. I have had some success with using a solder with a higher melting point for the first joints and then one with a lower melting point for rest. Tim's suggestion of wet tissue heat sinks helps as well. I use those metal hair clips to hold the tissue around the joint.
That is a very imressive build. Really does you credit. Painted and weathered it will be a real show stopper.
Jim

[Tim Marlow]

Another approach Jim is to tin the bits to be soldered on, mechanically hold the joints in place with blue tack or similar then reflux the area and heat the joints from underneath until the solder just melts.

[Jack L]

Primed with Mr Surfacer 1000. First time I have used it and am very impressed:

Pre-shade with MRP Nato Black:

Then a mamoth session with the MRP Tank Grey.

Done as much as I need to complete the build stage. Need to paint the subs, but my arm is knackered after all this! This is the better side...a bit disappointed in myself that I applied the grey a little bit too heavily on the reverse. Might be alright.
Thankfully got two of these.

[scottie3158]

Jack,
Loverly jubberly mate

[Mini Me]

I like it! :thumb2: Rick H.

[Steve Jones]

Outstanding!!