Howdy Guys and Gals,
The following tips and hints are from the Central Arkansas Scale modelers website : http://www.casmodels.org/ . One of the clerks at the Hobby shop I visit recently told me of this club and I thought that some of these tips were not only useful, but had an aire of humor to them, so enjoy. Also please feel free to stop by the site and vist the gallery.
Modeling Hints, Tips and Nevers
Hints
When your hobby knife begins to roll off your workbench, quickly move your feet and legs out
of the immediate impact area.
When you drop a part on the floor, first start by calculating the distance and direction it may
have traveled. Then begin your search for the missing part, in the direct opposite direction, and
at least twice as far out as you originally calculated.
If you are unable to find the part a second method of searching may prove successful. To
employ this alternate search method wait until late at night and walk through the modeling area
barefoot.
If neither method locates the missing part, give up. The part has traveled to a parallel universe
and will not be returning to your floor for at least one year.
Always keep your cup of coffee, glass of soda, etc., to the far left or right of your work area.
When retrieving your drink move the drink in a wide U-shaped arc from the coaster to your lips
around the work area.
That emery wheel you just put in the moto-tool will cut into your finger just like it will the plastic
it was designed to cut.
When confused about the correct placement of a part chances are more than 1000:1 that you
will invariably put it on either upside down, backwards, or both. The best way to avoid this is to
deliberately put it on wrong, thus insuring an inadvertent correct placement.
More glue is not always the answer.
Modeling Nevers
Never, I repeat, never hold a small part over an open bottle of paint or liquid cement.
Never volunteer to carry anyone else’s models. NEVER!!
Never volunteer for any club activities.
Never volunteer
Never tell your modeling friends, “I must have a different body chemistry, Super Glue just
doesn’t stick to my skin.” This is the modelers equivalent of the doomed redneck’s cry, “Hey ya’
ll – watch this!”
Never, give voice to the opinion, “That is a piece of crap” while attending a model show.
Inevitably the guy next to you will be the builder of that piece of crap.
Never use boiling water to heat-form plastic, regardless of what Shep Paine wrote, use HOT
water, not BOILING.
Tamiya Color Tips
Anyone who uses Tamiya military colors can tell you that their Olive Drab (XF-62) is far too
green. To put the Tamiya M26 Pershing (see the Reviews section) in a more reasonable
looking coat of O.D., I did some experimentation with Tamiya acrylics to see what I could come
up with. Below are the results of my inquiries:
3 Parts Khaki (XF-49) + 1 Part O.D. (XF-62) + 1 Part Flat Base—This one was the winner,
although No.2 was close.:
3 Parts O.D. (XF-62) + 1 Part Dark Yellow (XF-60) + 1 Part Flat Base—A bit lighter in shade
than No. 1.:
3 Parts Khaki Drab (XF-51) + 1 Part Dark Yellow (XF-60) + 1 Part Flat Base—Darker than the
first two.:
3 Parts Khaki (XF-49) + 1 Part Khaki Drab (XF-51) + 1 Part Flat Base—This one was darkest
of all.:
Any of these could have been used, although the first two looked best to me. These mixtures
will be useful in varying the shade of various equipment stowed on the Pershing.:
For a convincing rust color, try this combination of Tamiya paints: 4 Parts Flat Earth (XF-52) +
2 Parts Red Brown (XF-64) + 1 Part Flat Red (XF-7) + 1 Part Flat Yellow (XF-3) + 2 Parts Flat
Base:
For darker rust, vary the ratio of Flat Earth to Red Brown.
Have a good day,
Greg
The following tips and hints are from the Central Arkansas Scale modelers website : http://www.casmodels.org/ . One of the clerks at the Hobby shop I visit recently told me of this club and I thought that some of these tips were not only useful, but had an aire of humor to them, so enjoy. Also please feel free to stop by the site and vist the gallery.
Modeling Hints, Tips and NeversHints
When your hobby knife begins to roll off your workbench, quickly move your feet and legs out
of the immediate impact area.
When you drop a part on the floor, first start by calculating the distance and direction it may
have traveled. Then begin your search for the missing part, in the direct opposite direction, and
at least twice as far out as you originally calculated.
If you are unable to find the part a second method of searching may prove successful. To
employ this alternate search method wait until late at night and walk through the modeling area
barefoot.
If neither method locates the missing part, give up. The part has traveled to a parallel universe
and will not be returning to your floor for at least one year.
Always keep your cup of coffee, glass of soda, etc., to the far left or right of your work area.
When retrieving your drink move the drink in a wide U-shaped arc from the coaster to your lips
around the work area.
That emery wheel you just put in the moto-tool will cut into your finger just like it will the plastic
it was designed to cut.
When confused about the correct placement of a part chances are more than 1000:1 that you
will invariably put it on either upside down, backwards, or both. The best way to avoid this is to
deliberately put it on wrong, thus insuring an inadvertent correct placement.
More glue is not always the answer.
Modeling Nevers
Never, I repeat, never hold a small part over an open bottle of paint or liquid cement.
Never volunteer to carry anyone else’s models. NEVER!!
Never volunteer for any club activities.
Never volunteer
Never tell your modeling friends, “I must have a different body chemistry, Super Glue just
doesn’t stick to my skin.” This is the modelers equivalent of the doomed redneck’s cry, “Hey ya’
ll – watch this!”
Never, give voice to the opinion, “That is a piece of crap” while attending a model show.
Inevitably the guy next to you will be the builder of that piece of crap.
Never use boiling water to heat-form plastic, regardless of what Shep Paine wrote, use HOT
water, not BOILING.
Tamiya Color Tips
Anyone who uses Tamiya military colors can tell you that their Olive Drab (XF-62) is far too
green. To put the Tamiya M26 Pershing (see the Reviews section) in a more reasonable
looking coat of O.D., I did some experimentation with Tamiya acrylics to see what I could come
up with. Below are the results of my inquiries:
3 Parts Khaki (XF-49) + 1 Part O.D. (XF-62) + 1 Part Flat Base—This one was the winner,
although No.2 was close.:
3 Parts O.D. (XF-62) + 1 Part Dark Yellow (XF-60) + 1 Part Flat Base—A bit lighter in shade
than No. 1.:
3 Parts Khaki Drab (XF-51) + 1 Part Dark Yellow (XF-60) + 1 Part Flat Base—Darker than the
first two.:
3 Parts Khaki (XF-49) + 1 Part Khaki Drab (XF-51) + 1 Part Flat Base—This one was darkest
of all.:
Any of these could have been used, although the first two looked best to me. These mixtures
will be useful in varying the shade of various equipment stowed on the Pershing.:
For a convincing rust color, try this combination of Tamiya paints: 4 Parts Flat Earth (XF-52) +
2 Parts Red Brown (XF-64) + 1 Part Flat Red (XF-7) + 1 Part Flat Yellow (XF-3) + 2 Parts Flat
Base:
For darker rust, vary the ratio of Flat Earth to Red Brown.
Have a good day,
Greg
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