1/35 Krupp Protze

[GerryW]

Update after starting with the 2.5x mags on
The molding lines are there - just not too pronounced but enough to need a scraping.
There are three 'blemishes' on each side of the cab which will sit out like sore thumbs if left (thought that they'd be covered when I first looked, but they're on the inside of the cab:disappointed
And this little lot is just on the first 'section' - still better quality molding than the BMW!:smiling5::thumb2:

[JR]

Gerry I shall sit at the back away from the German vehicle experts. :nerd:

[GerryW]

Gerry I shall sit at the back away from the German vehicle experts. :nerd:

I'm no expert - and tend to do a search for images on the internet to find out what they look like (then try to get an idea of colour from the shade of grey!)

[Guest]

There are three 'blemishes' on each side of the cab which will sit out like sore thumbs if left

Are they circular depressions and/or slightly raised areas? If so, these are ejector marks. They’re left by the pins that push the sprue from the mould after it’s been made, as you can see at the point this video starts:

(Watching the whole thing gives you a good idea of how model kit parts are made, BTW.)

Anyway, the marks are left on the part because the pins are usually not quite flush with the rest of the mould, but they’re needed to get the part out. This is why many smaller parts have a little extra round bit of plastic attached to them, which you have to cut away: for an ejector pin to push against, rather than the part itself. Especially older kits often have ejectors pushing against larger parts themselves, and frequently in areas that will be visible after assembly.

[The Smythe Meister]

QUOTE="GerryW, post: 551407, member: 8608"]
I'm no expert - and tend to do a search for images on the internet to find out what they look like (then try to get an idea of colour from the shade of grey!)
[/QUOTE]
Well then Bud....,you`ve had a good bit of interaction on this particular subject eh?!!:thumb2:
And well deserved too in my opinion! ....As an asidei loved my kit so much at the time,that i bought THIS......

It`s quite well priced,and you get a LOT for your money-hence these pics show what`s left AFTER using what you need!! ,
I do wish you well with this one..... if ever there`s been a kit to encourage people into the hobby........ then this one in particular fits the bill!!
Andy

[The Smythe Meister]

Are they circular depressions and/or slightly raised areas? If so, these are ejector marks. They’re left by the pins that push the sprue from the mould after it’s been made, as you can see at the point this video starts:

(Watching the whole thing gives you a good idea of how model kit parts are made, BTW.)

Anyway, the marks are left on the part because the pins are usually not quite flush with the rest of the mould, but they’re needed to get the part out. This is why many smaller parts have a little extra round bit of plastic attached to them, which you have to cut away: for an ejector pin to push against, rather than the part itself. Especially older kits often have ejectors pushing against larger parts themselves, and frequently in areas that will be visible after assembly.

Wow there Jakko!!
That is VERY interesting indeed,not seen this process type of thing explained before.... really informative!
I`ve always wondered how and why,the various moulding marks appear,in what is usually the most annoying places!!
Excellent insight....
Andy

[GerryW]

Are they circular depressions and/or slightly raised areas? If so, these are ejector marks. They’re left by the pins that push the sprue from the mould after it’s been made, as you can see at the point this video starts:

(Watching the whole thing gives you a good idea of how model kit parts are made, BTW.)

Anyway, the marks are left on the part because the pins are usually not quite flush with the rest of the mould, but they’re needed to get the part out. This is why many smaller parts have a little extra round bit of plastic attached to them, which you have to cut away: for an ejector pin to push against, rather than the part itself. Especially older kits often have ejectors pushing against larger parts themselves, and frequently in areas that will be visible after assembly.

They the marks :thumb2: they're depressions, so a little filler applied.

I'm no expert - and tend to do a search for images on the internet to find out what they look like (then try to get an idea of colour from the shade of grey!)

Well then Bud....,you`ve had a good bit of interaction on this particular subject eh?!!:thumb2:
And well deserved too in my opinion! ....As an asidei loved my kit so much at the time,that i bought THIS......
[ATTACH]417195[/ATTACH]
It`s quite well priced,and you get a LOT for your money-hence these pics show what`s left AFTER using what you need!! ,
I do wish you well with this one..... if ever there`s been a kit to encourage people into the hobby........ then this one in particular fits the bill!!
Andy

Looks like a handy set to get, will look into them, thanks!

[GerryW]

Starting to go together, little bits of filler needed - almost had a disaster, and fitted the rear hooks the wrong way, luckily spotted before too long!

Working out where the boots will have scratched up the floor, and the rear suspension arms are a bit fiddly to get the seam marks off!

[GerryW]

Do like using the Humbrol 'Metalcote' paints - after buffing with a cotton bud (Q-tip) they do come up well

[Allen Dewire]

Morn Gerry,

I too love the Krupp Protze kits and they do build up into a nice truck. Great job so far and it looks like you are having some fun too. That's what counts!!!

You may already know this, but if you turn the sprue over where the name Tamiya is molded (In the upper corner) you will find the date of the molding printed on the sprue.

Prost
Allen

[GerryW]

Morn Gerry,

I too love the Krupp Protze kits and they do build up into a nice truck. Great job so far and it looks like you are having some fun too. That's what counts!!!

You may already know this, but if you turn the sprue over where the name Tamiya is molded (In the upper corner) you will find the date of the molding printed on the sprue.

Prost
Allen

Hello Allen,
:thumb2: it's got 1978 - so a good few years old now.
Enjoying the build (at the moment anyway!) think that I might have to look for a finer tool for the filler, as I'm using the tip of my knife at the moment, and I can't get on with using a cocktail stick.
Gerry

[Dave Ward]

Gerry,
lolly sticks, or coffee stirrers - the wooden sort - I always use for filler ( it can stick on your knife blade ), can be trimmed to any size/shape & are sturdy enough to press that filler down!
Dave

[GerryW]

Gerry,
lolly sticks, or coffee stirrers - the wooden sort - I always use for filler ( it can stick on your knife blade ), can be trimmed to any size/shape & are sturdy enough to press that filler down!
Dave

Think that most of the lolly sticks here have been co-opted for the garden as seed markers :smiling2: I'll see if I can nick a few back!

[rtfoe]

Gerry...get used to cocktail sticks or rounded tooth pics as you'll be able to roll the putty in using your finger tips as well as poke in with the tip without crazing the plastic.

Cheers,
Richard

[Jim R]

Hi Gerry
Off to a good start - nice and neat. That's an interesting video that Jakko flagged up. I had no idea how the process worked or how the marks got there. Humbrol paints are a bit out of favor but I also like them.
Jim