Aoshima 1/12 Kawasaki 750 RS

[Dave Ward]

Whilst working on my half track, I've decided to go next for a motorbike, specifically, this:

As you may able to read, at the bottom, the boxart is of the "standard model. The actual model features the customized version." In other words, you can't actually make the model shown in the picture!! There is a small picture on the side of the box of the model inside. The Aoshima model seems almost to be made for the Japanese market, the English translations are not exactly comprehensive. I'll be putting up some sprue pictures tomorrow, there are a lot of surplus parts, and the instructions need careful study................
Dave

[Tim Marlow]

Got to love that Dave….I owned its slightly later model close cousin….

[Dave Ward]

Just trying to decipher the colour call outs - the tank is a mixture of copper & 'russet' - I know what colour they're trying to mix, but I rather think I might go with some metallic red ( I found a bottle in my box! ) - after all it's a customised version!
Dave

[Tim Marlow]

Looks good in green Dave…

[Dave Ward]

OK, this is the picture from the side of the box:

Sprue shots...............................
The instructions are reasonably clear, but have minimal English. There are many alternate parts, brake discs, seats etc, that will need careful sorting out. The two 'chrome' sprues have differing finishes, which looks quite good. Overall the parts are cleanly & crisply moulded............................
Dave

[Dave Ward]

Some detail shots:


A few sink marks on the chain sprocket, I'll have to see if they will be visible after assembly

There are two different brake disc sets............
Chain & cam drive covers

Shocks - unlike a lot of Tamiya bikes, it has solid suspension.
Looks OK, the parts may not have the crispness of a Tamiya production, and time will tell if the fit is any good.
Dave

[Nicko]

Those sprocket sink marks look like they're where the studs/nuts for mounting would be - are there some one the other side?

Nick

[Dave Ward]

Those sprocket sink marks look like they're where the studs/nuts for mounting would be - are there some one the other side?

Nick

Nick,
yes indeed!

Those sink marks will be invisible...................
Dave

[tigersteve]

Can't resist watching another bike build - have fun !

[simontie]

Nick,
yes indeed!
[ATTACH=CONFIG]n1163631[/ATTACH]
Those sink marks will be invisible...................
Dave

My zephyr kits turned out really well both by Aoshima kits fit was good to have fun watching Now

[Dave Ward]

Construction started - sort of..................................

The assembly starts with the front forks & wheel, and the rear swing arm, but you have to paint the discs & chain first.

Then the problems start - I thought the mouldings were pretty good, but on close inspection of the 'plated' parts shows mould split lines & sink marks.
The swing arm may be hard to see in the finished model, but the front forks are prominent.
Out with the glass jar & the bleach, and half an hour later

Tesco Lemon Thick Bleach works wonders! Split line & filler will clean these parts up - I probably will have to do some more of these plated parts!
Engine assembly next, but I will have to join the front mudguard & fuel tank halves first - these will be metallic red, and the joins will have to be perfect to give a good finish on what are really prominent parts, so a lot of sanding ( not filler, I hope ) before I think of priming.
Dave

[adt70hk]

That's some fairly large sink marks there Dave.

I've obviously heard of bleach removing plating before but never had to it. How long do you have to leave it in soak for?

ATB.

Andrew

[Tim Marlow]

Sink marks are a little concerning Dave. Fairly easy to fix, but a bit of a pain. Never had a model without mould split lines though, so thats par for the course.

[Dave Ward]

That's some fairly large sink marks there Dave.

I've obviously heard of bleach removing plating before but never had to it. How long do you have to leave it in soak for?

ATB.

Andrew

Andrew,
This plating was easy, 1/2 hour in a 75/25 bleach/water mix. I have had some which resisted much longer, but putting them in a fresh mix worked ( over 2 days I reckon ). The plating just flakes/dissolves/
The water is added 'cos the Tesco bleach is a thick bleach & you want it runny, to get into all the cracks. and Tesco, because that's my household bleach ( Cheap! )
I use a small clear glass jar ( hot salsa dip ), that I put the bleach mix & parts in, and give a shake every now & then, and inspect the effect of the bleach. After, I rinse in clean water, give a wash in warm soapy water ( washing up liquid ), air dried & ready for painting/filling
Dave

[adt70hk]

Andrew,
This plating was easy, 1/2 hour in a 75/25 bleach/water mix. I have had some which resisted much longer, but putting them in a fresh mix worked ( over 2 days I reckon ). The plating just flakes/dissolves/
The water is added 'cos the Tesco bleach is a thick bleach & you want it runny, to get into all the cracks. and Tesco, because that's my household bleach ( Cheap! )
I use a small clear glass jar ( hot salsa dip ), that I put the bleach mix & parts in, and give a shake every now & then, and inspect the effect of the bleach. After, I rinse in clean water, give a wash in warm soapy water ( washing up liquid ), air dried & ready for painting/filling
Dave

Thanks Dave, much appreciated. Will bear your advice in mind should i ever be faced with it!!

ATB.

Andrew